Houseplants Published: April 12, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:
Flower chlorophytum (lat.Clorophytum) has 200-250 (depending on the source) plant species and belongs to the Asparagus family. The plant was first found naturally in South Africa. Chlorophytum is now widespread in the tropical zones of the Earth. The name of the plant comes from the words "chloros" and "phyton", which means green and plant, respectively.
Chlorophytum is a short-stemmed herbaceous perennial with tuberous roots. The leaves are rosette, oval or lanceolate, growing just over half a meter in length. The flowers of the plant are white and small in size.
The chlorophytum plant is grown as an ampelous species, and is also grouped with other plants or exhibited one at a time. Those wishing to reduce the amount of carbon monoxide can use indoor chlorophytum in the kitchen as it is it removes formaldehyde and carbon monoxide from the air.
Briefly about growing
- Bloom: the plant is grown as an ornamental deciduous plant.
- Lighting: bright diffused light. Green-leaved varieties are comfortable in partial shade, but variegated forms require brighter lighting.
- Temperature: common for living quarters. The main thing is that in winter the temperature does not drop below 10 ºC.
- Watering: from spring to autumn - regular and abundant; in winter, watering is reduced, allowing the substrate in the pot to dry out to a quarter of the depth.
- Air humidity: common for living quarters.
- Top dressing: from spring to autumn - once every two weeks, organic and mineral fertilizers alternately.
- Rest period: from October to January.
- Transfer: in late winter or early spring: young chlorophytums are transplanted annually, adults - once every 2-3 years.
- Substrate: 2 parts of humus, sod and leafy land and 1 part of sand.
- Reproduction: seeds and layering.
- Pests: mealybugs, aphids and spider mites.
- Diseases: rot of the leaf rosette, loss of turgor by leaves, spots on the leaves, and in variegated chlorophytums, the pattern may disappear.
Read more about growing chlorophytum below.
Photo of chlorophytum
Chlorophytum care at home
The best place for indoor chlorophytum is windows on the east or west side, because the plant needs bright, but diffused light. The plant can tolerate direct rays for several hours a day. It is not recommended to grow forms of chlorophytum with variegated leaves in the shade, since the leaves may lose their color.
Temperature does not play a special role. In summer, chlorophytum flowers will not be superfluous to take out in a place protected from precipitation and drafts in the fresh air. It is necessary to ensure that in winter the temperature does not fall below 10 ° C - this can harm the plant.
The chlorophytum flower at home requires a lot of moisture from spring to autumn, so at this time it needs to provide abundant watering. With poor watering, tuberous thickenings will form. In winter, watered more carefully, making sure that the soil does not dry out or sour.
Spraying is not necessary, but chlorophytum will respond to it with faster development.
In spring and summer, the indoor flower chlorophytum needs to be fed alternately with organic and mineral fertilizers every two weeks.
Young chlorophytum plants are transplanted annually, and older plants are transplanted every two to three years. The transplant is done in late winter - early spring. For transplantation, take a wide pot with a loose and light substrate, consisting of 1 part of sand and 2 parts of sod, humus and leafy soil. Good drainage is needed at the bottom of the pot.
Growing from seeds
Chlorophytum seeds are sown at home in late spring - early spring. It will not be superfluous to soak the seeds for half a day or a day, but the water needs to be changed every 2-3 hours. The soil mixture is made either from sand and peat, or from sand, leafy and humus earth. The seeds are placed on pre-moistened soil and slightly pressed, after which the container is covered with glass or cellophane film (it should be stretched and should not touch the substrate). The temperature must be kept at 21-24 ° C, from time to time the substrate is sprayed and the container is regularly ventilated by removing glass or film. The normal waiting time for the emergence of chlorophytum seedlings is from 3 to 6 weeks. When the seedlings appear, the container must be opened, allowing the seedlings to get used to the open air. When the seedlings grow up and 2-4 leaves appear on them, they are dived into individual small pots, and when the seedlings get stronger and grow, they are transplanted into a substrate for adult specimens.
Reproduction by layering
On the peduncles of some types of indoor plant chlorophytum, rosettes with leaves and roots of young plants appear - they can be separated from the parent chlorophytum, rooted in earth or water and planted in a separate pot.
It was found that chlorophytum very well cleans the air from formaldehyde and excess carbon monoxide. Often grown in the kitchen, because it is there that there is a lot of carbon monoxide, which is very harmful to humans.
Diseases and pests
Chlorophytum leaves turn brown. Insufficient plant nutrition can result in leaf tips boring. Other reasons may be increased temperature or dryness of the air, as well as mechanical damage.
Spots on the leaves of chlorophytum. If the air temperature is high in winter, and the plant is watered excessively, then brown spots may appear on the leaves.
Chlorophytum leaves turn pale. Leaves lose color and turgor if there is not enough light and the temperature is quite high. Another reason is the lack of minerals in the substrate.
Chlorophytum rots. With excessive watering, the leaf rosette can begin to rot, which is more likely when the soil is waterlogged in winter. Another reason is insufficiently loose soil.
Chlorophytum leaves become monochromatic. So that the forms of chlorophytum with variegated leaves do not lose their color, they need to be provided with bright lighting. In cloudy weather, it is necessary to illuminate the plant with fluorescent lamps.
Chlorophytum does not bloom. Young plants do not bloom. The reason for the lack of peduncles may be still in a too cramped pot.
Chlorophytum pests. Usually pests settle on sick or weak plants. Of the pests, worms, aphids and spider mites most often look at chlorophytum.
Chlorophytum Cape / Chlorophytum capense
Rosette herbaceous perennial with tuber-like roots. Leaves are light green, not pubescent, lanceolate, have a groove on the upper side of the leaf plate and a keel on the lower; grow a little more than 0.5 m in length and up to 3 cm in width (at the widest point, because at the top and at the base the leaf is tapering). The peduncle grows out of a leaf rosette. Flowers emerge from the leaf sinuses on the peduncle - small, white, gather in racemose inflorescences. The fruit looks like a box. On the peduncle of this species, rosettes of young plants are not formed.
Winged Chlorophytum / Chlorophytum amaniense
The leaves of this species are dark green, growing on long petioles, the color of which goes from orange-red to pink; leaves taper at the top and at the base (towards the petiole), grooved. The varieties Fire Flash or Green Orange have orange leaf petioles. To prevent the petioles from losing color, it is recommended to remove the peduncles.
Chlorophytum crested / Chlorophytum comosum
It is a herbaceous perennial. The stem of the plant is short. The leaves grow from the stem, are not pubescent, elongated lanceolate, light green, beautifully bent. A shoot grows from the middle of the bunch of leaves, on which small white flowers are located in the shape of a star. Young plants grow from the leaf sinuses of this shoot at the end of flowering. The roots of chlorophytum are crested white, dense, juicy.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Asparagus
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Indoor Plants Information
Sections: Houseplants Ornamental deciduous Plants for the kitchen Asparagus Plants on X
Sentyabrinki - this is how the people call Astra virgin or new belgian (Symphyotrichum novi-belgii) with an interesting and melodic name. The name of the flower is directly related to the flowering period. The delicate buds of this perennial plant bloom in early September and delight gardeners with their beauty until late autumn.
There is no need to pre-prepare the seeds before sowing. They can be planted immediately in open ground before winter or spring. But in order for the bells to bloom earlier, they must be planted in the spring for seedlings. The best time to plant seeds for seedlings is March. As soil for seedlings, you can use a ready-made substrate, developed specifically for flower seedlings. The soil must be watered abundantly before planting. The seeds do not need to be deepened, they should be evenly distributed over the surface of the soil and sprinkled a little. After planting, the soil must be sprayed. This should be done carefully so as not to wash the seeds out of the soil. Seed boxes should be covered with plastic wrap. The first shoots should appear in 2-3 weeks.
As soon as the first shoots appear, the film must be removed and the boxes must be placed in a bright place where direct sunlight does not fall. Watering should be regular. After each watering, you need to carefully loosen the soil so as not to damage the root system of the seedlings. After the seedlings have two real leaves, it is necessary to transplant them into separate pots.
When purchasing spathiphyllum in a flower shop, you can not worry about whether an exotic guest will take root on an ordinary windowsill. This plant tolerates even unfavorable conditions, such as a weekly lack of watering, short daylight hours or temperatures lowered to + 10C. After the resumption of a suitable climate, the flower will return to normal development, but for the regular appearance of white "flags" and the splendor of evergreen leaves, it should be provided with maximum comfort without the stressful situations described above.
Slightly diffused sunlight is very important for representatives of the subtropical flora, therefore it is undesirable to place the pot with spathiphyllum in a dark corner. Southeast and southwest window sills, closed balconies or verandas are much more suitable for him.
Lack of sun leads to depletion of leaves and a stop of flowering, but scorching rays also have a detrimental effect on the plant. There is no need to illuminate the "white sailing ship" - in the autumn-winter period it simply slows down the growth processes, reducing the need for photosynthesis.
Constant moisture in the soil and air is one of the most important conditions for growing spathiphyllum. Water it generously as the topsoil dries up, leaving some water on the pan. It also does not hurt to spray the leaves with a spray bottle. The liquid should be at room temperature, standing. Excessive watering should not be allowed in cold conditions - if the room does not warm up to comfortable values in winter, it is better to leave the soil half dry.
In order for the spathiphyllum to grow well and bloom profusely, a warm climate must be maintained in the room where it stands. Optimum indicators are considered to be + 22 ... + 28C, in winter, the line should not fall below + 15C, but if possible, it is better to take the flower to a more comfortable place. It is also worth noting that "female happiness" does not react well to drafts, so you shouldn't leave it near an open window.
The time of active development in spathiphyllum lasts from March to September. This period accounts for the massive growth of new leaves and the regular (ideally, year-round) appearance of flowers. To stimulate vegetative processes, the plant is watered every 1-2 weeks with water with the addition of a complex mineral agent containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. It is best to purchase a ready-made fertilizer for flowering plants and apply it following the instructions. Spathiphyllum quite well perceives feeding with organic matter - for this, a little mullein or humus can be mixed into the soil.
Chlorophytum does not have to be purchased at the store. If desired, you can multiply it yourself. This procedure is simple and you do not need to have special knowledge and skills to perform it. For true flower growers, this process can be very exciting. It is always pleasant to watch how the flowers planted with your own hands grow and develop.
The collected chlorophytum seeds are wrapped in cotton cloth and soaked in water for a day. During this period, the liquid is changed 6 times. Then the seed is sown onto a wet peat-sand mixture, lightly hammered in and covered with glass. Crops are placed in a warm, slightly shaded place. In order for the seedlings to appear faster, they are kept at a temperature of 25 ° C. Every day, the glass is removed for 5-10 minutes, and the soil mixture is moistened.
Chlorophytum seed germination depends on the variety and averages 40%. The first shoots can be seen in 2 months. After their appearance, the airing time is increased. This is necessary for the plant to harden and adapt to environmental conditions. It is also an excellent prevention of fungal diseases. After the seedlings have 3 true leaves, they are dived into small pots.
Reproduction of chlorophytum using outlets is one of the easiest ways. The "baby" is cut off from the mother bush and placed in water for several days so that the root system begins to actively develop. Then it is transplanted into a pot filled with growing medium and moistened. Reproduction in this way can be carried out at any time of the year.
Dividing the bush
One adult chlorophytum can be divided into several new ones. A few hours before the procedure, it is generously watered. Then the bush is removed from the pot along with an earthen lump. With the help of a sharp knife, its roots are divided. Places of cuts are processed with crushed charcoal. In parallel with this, dry, soft, rotten elements are removed. The resulting units are seated in different containers and watered.
Planting and breeding
Levisia is grown outdoors as a perennial that can live in one place for more than 10 years. When planting and caring for Levisia as a potted plant, the wintering of a flower is carried out by transferring the pot to a warm room. In summer, Levisia arrives in an open-air pot.
The place for plants must be chosen so that it is in direct sunlight for only part of the daylight hours. The eastern and western windows of the premises, slopes, and the foot of large boulders and stones are suitable for levisia. The light in the afternoon for levisia should be diffused.
With the right place and soil, Levisia can live in one place for more than 10 years. Experienced gardeners strongly advise against replanting the plant.
Levisia: growing from seed
As soon as the seeds are ripe, they are immediately sown in the ground, since they quickly lose their germination.At the end of autumn, seeds are sown in open ground, in previously prepared beds, after which the seeds are sprinkled with a thick layer of peat or compost.
In the spring, closer to April, the first shoots appear. Experienced gardeners disagree. Some believe that the plant should be dived, others advise leaving young shoots alone for one year, after which they should be transplanted to a permanent place.
Seeds can be sown for seedlings in the spring, after having subjected them to a 30-day stratification in the refrigerator. Stratification can be carried out after sowing in the ground. For this, small containers are filled with loose moist soil, seeds are sown, lightly sprinkled with earth. The container is covered with glass. After thirty days in the cold, when the seeds have germinated, the container is moved to heat and left until the sprouts have 2 - 3 true leaves.
Levizia grown from seeds is transplanted into open ground when the air has warmed up enough and there is no likelihood of night frosts.
Only for 2 - 3 years, when levizia is propagated by seeds, the plant will bloom.
Propagation of levisia by cuttings
As plants grow, lateral shoots are formed that do not have their own root. In the spring, a young rosette is separated with a sharp knife. For planting, prepare loose poor soil in small containers. Immediately a couple of hours before planting, the cuttings are treated with a fungicide and a root formation stimulant. The planted cuttings are kept in a cool room, they will soon take root. As soon as the root system gets stronger, they can be transplanted to a permanent place.