Abutilon - How to care for and grow your Abutilon plant

Abutilon - How to care for and grow your Abutilon plant

HOW TO GROW AND CARE FOR OUR PLANTS

ABUTILON

It is an evergreen plant both indoors and outdoors, very generous in blooms that can become very large, especially if grown outdoors in temperate climate regions.

BOTANICAL CLASSIFICATION

Kingdom

:

Plantae

Clado

: Angiosperms

Clado

: Eudicotyledons

Clado

: Asteris

Clado

: Euroside II

Order

:

Malvales

Family

:

Malvaceae

Kind

:

Abutilon

Species

: see the paragraph on "Main species"

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

The genus Abutilon, family Malvaceae, it includes plants mostly native to the tropical and sub tropical areas of South America.

It is an evergreen herbaceous and shrubby plant that can reach considerable dimensions: one and a half meters in height if grown in pots but also 5 m if grown in the open ground.

The leaves, carried by petioles, are deeply incised and very often streaked with yellow, with an elliptical or heart-shaped oval shape depending on the species.

The flowers, solitary or gathered in inflorescences, are pendulous and resemble those of the bellflower, of a color that varies from yellow, to orange, to pink depending on the species and variety.

They appear at the axil of the leaves and, regardless of the species, the stamens are welded together around the stylus to form a sort of column that often protrudes from the corolla.

MAIN SPECIES

There are about a hundred species among which we remember:

ABUTILON GRANDIFOLIUM

It is a very widespread species characterized by ovate green leaves with serrated edges and, depending on the variety, streaked with white. It forms small yellow or orange flowers that bloom in late spring and autumn if temperatures permit.

ABUTILON STRIATUM

It is native to Uruguay capable of reaching the size of a sapling.

The leaves are green-gray, palmate. The flowers are red - orange in the shape of a bellflower and blooms during the spring - summer period.

There are also several varieties with double flowers, variously colored and often mottled.The mottled leaf varieties, very decorative, are actually the result of a viral attack.

The virus responsible for the mottling is commonly called Abutilon mosaic virus which is transmitted from one plant to another through grafting or much more rarely with the seed or even by the whitefly.


Mottled tulip

The virus becomes manifest the greater the light intensity (for this reason it is advisable, if you want not to lose the mottling of the leaves, to keep these plants in very bright environments) while with low light intensity the mottling almost disappears, the leaves remain green (the virus does not show its symptoms but is always present).

In fact, however, many virologists disagree in considering this pathology a disease as it does not cause any damage to the plant but increases its ornamental value.

The literature is full of cases like this. Just think of the famous mottled tulips that have been so successful but which are nothing more than normal monochromatic tulips infected with viruses that give the delicious streaks.

ABUTILON MEGAPOTAMICUM

The species A. megapotamicum it is native to Brazil and can reach up to 2.5 m in height.

It is characterized by very intense green leaves, ovate and with serrated edges. The flowers have yellow petals and emerge from a bright red calyx. It blooms from spring and all summer until late autumn.

There are numerous varieties among which we remember: A. megapotamicum Variegata with leaves irregularly mottled with yellowish-white.

The flowers are edible, with a sweetish taste.

ABUTILON VITIFOLIUM

The species A. vitifolium it can reach 8 meters in height and has green leaves with a velvety appearance. It produces delicious mauve or lavender flowers from May to October which as they grow, become flat and reach a diameter of 8 cm.

There are several varieties including the variety A. vitifolium album with white flowers.

Also in this case the flowers are edible and have a sweetish taste.

ABUTILON HYBRIDUM

It is a shrub that reaches 2.5 m in height if grown in the open field. It blooms from spring to autumn producing delightful solitary flowers at the axil of the leaves, with 5 petals carried by long, pendulous petioles with shades ranging from yellow to red to orange.

There are numerous varieties among which we remember: Ashford red with salmon-colored flowers; Boule de neige with white flowers and orange stamens; Canary bird is Golden fleece with yellow flowers.

ABUTILON AVICENNAE or A. THEOPHRASTI

L'A. avicennae it is also known as A. theophrasti and it grows quite generously, about 1 m per year.

The flowers are yellow and appear in summer. For more details see the "Curiosity" section.

ABUTILON SAVITZII

L'TO. savitzii it is characterized by white leaves mottled with green and apricot-colored pendulous flowers.

Other species are:

ABUTILON PICTUM

It is an evergreen shrub that grows up to 5m in height and blooms from spring to summer. This species is not very tolerant towards low temperatures and is very demanding in terms of lice which must be very abundant (not only direct).A. pictum Thompsonii with leaves variously streaked with gold.

ABUTILON X MILLERI

L'TO. x milleri it is a species characterized by large leaves streaked with yellow that blooms from spring to late autumn, producing delicate orange-yellow flowers with red streaks. It is a mild climate species. It resembles the A. megapotanicumThe flowers of these species are also edible.

CULTURAL TECHNIQUE

It is not a difficult plant to grow.

The temperature ranges in which it grows well are between 10-15 ° C during the spring - summer period while in winter they must not drop below 5 ° C, therefore in temperate climate areas, they can also be grown outdoors while in climates that have harsh winters, it is advisable to keep them in protected environments or, if grown outdoors, keep them in pots and, during the cold months, take them to sheltered places.

They need a lot of light, especially species with variegated leaves, but exposure to direct sunlight should be avoided. Only theA. megapotamicum tolerates direct sun, but not in the hottest hours of the day.

They are plants that love the air so it is advisable to often ventilate the environment in which they are located but pay attention to air currents, especially cold, which are not tolerated.

WATERING

It should be watered often, even every day during the summer, so that the soil is always humid, while avoiding stagnation of water that is in no way welcome. Even in winter you follow the same rules, that is to always keep the soil slightly moist.

It is advisable to nebulize the foliage regularly to keep the environment sufficiently humid.

A good technique to ensure the right humidity is to place the pot on a saucer in which expanded clay or other inert material will be placed in which there will always be water which, evaporating, will guarantee a humid environment. pot does not come into contact with water.

Equip the radiators with humidifiers.

TYPE OF SOIL - REPOT

It is repotted every year, at the beginning of spring, immediately after the vegetative restart, using a vase slightly larger than the previous one.

A mixture of fertile soil, peat and sand is used in equal parts in order to be permeable as they do not like water stagnation.

We always recommend using terracotta pots as, being porous, they allow the soil to breathe.

FERTILIZATION

From the vegetative restart and throughout the summer it must be fertilized regularly every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer diluted in the watering water.During the other periods of the year the fertilizations must be suspended.

They are very greedy for nourishment so it is good to use complete fertilizers that in addition to having nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) also have microelements such as magnesium (Mg), manganese (Mn), iron ( Fe), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn), boron (B), all important for growth.

FLOWERING

Flowering usually occurs from spring and throughout the summer but if it is grown indoors and adequate temperatures are guaranteed, it can bloom all year round.

PRUNING

It should be pruned regularly at the vegetative restart to eliminate the lateral branches that have formed, the dead ones or in any case dry.

The branches, for plants grown outdoors, must be cut for half their length while for those raised at home, simply trim the tops for about 8-10 cm.

Use clean and disinfected tools and the cut should be done just above the knot in a clean way, without leaving any fraying and in a slightly inclined way, in the direction in which you want the future branch to develop.

MULTIPLICATION

It propagates by seed but above all by cutting.

When choosing the technique to adopt, keep in mind that multiplication by seed has the disadvantage that, almost certainly, you will not get seedlings equal to the mother plant as genetic variability takes over. Therefore, if you want to obtain a precise specimen or you are not sure of the quality of the seed, it is good to do the multiplication by cuttings.

As for SEED MULTIPLICATION, it is carried out in early spring (March-April) by distributing the seeds evenly, in parallel rows on a soil for seeds, burying them slightly, push them under the ground using a flat piece of wood.

To prevent any attacks by fungi, it would be advisable to administer a broad spectrum fungicide with the irrigation water, in the doses indicated in the package.The tray with the seeds is kept in the shade, at a temperature around 15-20 ° C and constantly humid ( use a sprayer to completely moisten the soil) until the moment of germination.

The tray is covered with a clear plastic sheet or glass plate to ensure a good temperature and prevent the soil from drying out too quickly.

When the seeds have germinated, the plastic sheet is removed and as the seedlings grow, the amount of light is increased (never direct sun) and good ventilation is ensured. Eliminate the less vigorous plants to give space to the more robust ones.When they are large enough to be handled, that is to say when they have reached a height of at least 10 cm, you will transplant them taking care in any case not to spoil any part of the plant (it would be preferable to use a fork for these operations that you will insert under the ground to take the whole plant and put it in the new pot) in a soil as indicated for adult plants.

For their first year of life it is preferable to keep them in a protected environment.

MULTIPLICATION FOR TALEA

The cuttings can be taken from the top of the branches, at the beginning of spring (March-April), 8-15 cm long, choosing them from healthy and robust specimens. Cut them obliquely (it allows you to have a greater surface for rooting and avoids the accumulation of water on its surface) immediately under the node, eliminating the leaves located further down.

Use a sharp blade or knife to prevent the tissues from fraying, clean and disinfect (preferably with the flame or with alcohol or bleach) to avoid infecting tissues and disinfect it with each cut. of the roots and also add a broad spectrum fungicide to prevent any fungal attacks.At this point you can place the cuttings in a soil formed in equal parts of dark peat and coarse sand by making a hole with a pencil and planting them at a depth of about 1.5-2 cm .

Cover the jar with a transparent plastic sheet or a hooded bag and place it in the shade and at a temperature around 20 ° C. The soil should always be kept slightly moist by watering the root cutting with non-calcareous water and at room temperature without wetting the cuttings.Every day check the cuttings by removing the plastic both to eliminate the condensation that forms and possibly to moisten the soil. first sprouts means that the cutting has formed the roots at which point the plastic is removed and it settles in a brighter position (not in direct sun) and it is treated as if it were an adult.

For the first year of life for them too, as for plants born from seed, it is preferable to breed them in a protected environment and eventually transplant them outdoors, the following year.

PARASITES AND DISEASES

A good practice for plants that grow in pots outdoors is to clean them with water in order to eliminate dust and any unwanted insects. Beforehand, however, be careful to cover the vase with a plastic sheet so as not to let the water go into the earth. Certainly this system is not decisive if you have for example aphids or other unwanted "guests", but it certainly helps. This system is also recommended before any treatments as it helps to reduce the number of pathogens.

Suddenly falling leaves

If this happens it is likely that there has been a sharp change in temperature.
Remedies: the remedies are preventive in the sense that it is necessary to be aware of where the plant is positioned.

The leaves begin to wither

This is the first symptom of a probable lack of water, especially in summer, so much so that, if the temperatures are very high, it should be watered even twice a day.
Remedies: provide abundant watering and for the future, better regulate irrigation.

Spots on the underside of the leaves

It can easily be subject to attacks by cochineals and in particular the floury cochineal and brown cochineal.

To be sure, look with a magnifying glass. These insects are distinctive, you can't go wrong. Also, if you try to scratch them off, they can be easily removed. The brown cochineal is protected by a sort of hemispherical shield while the mealy cochineal resembles small cotton flakes.

Remedies: you can eliminate them with a cotton swab soaked in denatured alcohol or if the plant is in a pot it can be washed with water and neutral soap by gently rubbing with a sponge to remove the scale insects, after which it should be rinsed to remove the soap. For larger plants planted outdoors, specific pesticides can be used.

The leaves appear dotted with yellow

The leaves appear dotted with yellow and subsequently the leaves take on a bronze-gray color and the lower page appears as dusty and if observed with a magnifying glass you also notice some thin cobwebs, surely you are in the presence of an infection due to mites or as more they are commonly called red diragnetto. They are the size of the head of the tip of a pin and are easily recognized also by the four pairs of legs.

Remedies: increase the humidity around the plant as a dry environment favors their proliferation and possibly, in the case of serious infestations, use a specific acaricide.

Presence of small insects on all green parts

Aphids or as they are more commonly called lice can infest these plants. They can be of different color depending on the species, but almost always light colors from yellow to green to white.

Remedies: treat with specific pesticides that you can easily find from a good nurseryman.

Presence of small insects similar to small white butterflies

These small insects are whiteflies, known as white flies. To understand if it is about them just shake the plant and you will see it rise like a cloud. They are found mainly concentrated on the underside of the leaves. The damages are caused by the subtraction of the lymph, having a stinging-sucking mouth apparatus and by the punctures they make in the tissues for the deposition of the eggs. They also produce honeydew (their droppings which are sugary and sticky) which can cause smoke and can transmit virosis.

Remedies: treat with specific pesticides.

To combat all the insects mentioned above, it is recommended to use systemic products, i.e. they enter the lymphatic circulation of the plant and are therefore absorbed by insects during feeding.

CURIOSITY'

L'Abutilon it is also known by the name of flowering maple for the shape of the leaves that recall those of the maple.

Its name derives from the Arabic term that was used to indicate a plant that had similar characteristics to mallow.

Dell 'A. avicennae in China the seeds are used, eaten fresh when they are still green or, once ripe, are washed well, to remove the bitter taste and then left to dry and then reduced to flour and used in soups, bread, etc. They are very nutritious as they contain 17% protein, 16% fat and 33% carbohydrates In some countries it is also used as a medicine: from its dried leaves a tea is obtained which is used as an astringent (for dysentery) and 'incontinence. This species is also cultivated in China and Russia to obtain a fiber similar to jute from its stems.

Online bibliographic sources
(es) Ecocrop Fao


Abutilon is an evergreen shrub native to South America in nature these shrubs reach 2-3 meters in height, with a roundish habit. It has very branched stems, which form a dense crown, consisting of large light green leaves, very similar in shape to the leaves of the maple from late spring until the first cold weather produces numerous large bell-shaped, slightly pendulous, red, yellow flowers or orange there are also hybrids with pink or blue-blue flowers, the calyxes of the flowers, the branches and the leaves are covered with a thin silky down. The flowers are followed by fruits, small dark berries, which remain on the plant for many weeks in the winter months. These plants are also grown indoors.


Cultivating myrtle: here's how to do it in the garden and in pots

The myrtle is an aromatic and medicinal plant that grows spontaneously in the Mediterranean scrub.
Do you want to try growing myrtle? Have you already tried but something went wrong?
Here is our guide on how to grow the myrtle plant in pots or directly in the ground.

Myrtle berries (photo by Michele Lecis)

Myrtle (Myrtus communis L., 1753)

Myrtle is a rustic plant that belongs to the family of Mirtaceae.
It grows throughout the Italian coastal area and in some cases even reaches the submontane area, up to 600-800 meters above sea level.
It characterizes the landscape of the rocky coasts of Sardinia and Corsica but it is a very widespread plant throughout southern Europe.
Myrtle is an evergreen, woody shrub, or it can be shaped like a tree which can reach a maximum of 4 meters in height but normally expected around 2 meters.
Its bark changes color depending on the development period of the plant because when the myrtle is young it is reddish in color but the more the plant grows the more it takes on shades of gray and is covered with numerous cracks.
The leaves of the myrtle are oval, bright green and shiny on the top (they are instead more opaque and clear on the lower page), they have an evident ribs in the center and are free of fluff and very odorous.
The five-petaled white flowers they are very fragrant, appear on the branches from late spring to summer and make the myrtle an ornamental plant suitable both to be used to shape a hedge and to embellish the garden as a small fragrant sapling.
The leaves of the plant and the berries of dark blue color that myrtle produces from autumn to winter they are used in the kitchen to season and flavor meat main courses and in the preparation of decoctions, syrups and the famous Myrtle Liquor.

Environmental needs: climate, exposure and soil

Myrtle is a plant that grows easily in areas from temperate weather, it is not afraid of drought, on the contrary it loves the high temperatures and humidity that characterize the climate of the Mediterranean scrub.
Prefers full sun exposure and places where direct radiation persists throughout the day.
The myrtle is able to withstand low temperatures if it is in a place sufficiently protected from the elements but fears the harsh cold and hardly survives in areas where the thermometer drops below 5 degrees in winter.
The ideal soil is well-drained soil with neutral or slightly acid pH.
The myrtle survives even in an arid soil or poor in substance but does not like calcareous or poorly drained soils.

How to grow myrtle in the garden and in pots

Myrtle is one rustic plant quite resistant but it is advisable to place it in a place that has a mild climate, in a well drained soil ed avoid in any way the formation of water stagnation.

In the case of the planting of a myrtle plant in the vegetable garden or in the garden it is necessary prepare the land working it for at least half a meter in depth to avoid the formation of hard clods that could hinder the development of the plant's root system.
The terrain it must be sufficiently humid but always well drained to prevent any precipitations from forming water stagnations, a very unfavorable condition for the development and survival of the plant itself.
Planting must be done in autumn, between September and October, or in spring, between March and April.
Although the plant does not require one fertilization specifies if you want to have a very luxuriant myrtle plant, to have extraordinary supplies and subsequent succulent berries to use in the kitchen, it is advisable to use liquid fertilizers based on nitrogen and potassium in the months preceding the planting.
For the same reason, although myrtle tolerates water shortages well and is able to withstand even periods of drought, you must carry out carry out regular watering especially in summer to get a better yield of berries in the fall and get bigger ones. remember that the plant should be watered only when the soil is dry.

Should you choose to cultivate myrtle in pots need a very large container, at least 40 cm, to prevent the extensive roots of the myrtle from suffering from the lack of sufficient space for root development.
You can use some simple field earth or universal loam perhaps enriched with domestic compost, placing expanded clay at the base to avoid water stagnation.
The aromatic plant should be watered regularly letting the earth dry out between irrigations.

Are you wondering when to transplant myrtle?
When the size of the original vase should no longer be sufficient the repotting operation must be carried out at the end of winter, in February, or in September.

Despite the pruning operations of the myrtle are necessary only if you want to develop the plant in the shape of a sapling it would always be advisable to carry out regular pruning after the end of winter, around March, to preserve young branches and eliminate dry branches to reinvigorate the plant waiting for spring flowering.

Myrtle flowers (Source: Montemarcello-Magra-Vara Regional Natural Park)

Reproduction: how to create a new myrtle plant

Multiplication of myrtle can take place by seed or by cuttings.

  • By seed
    The ideal period to multiply myrtle through sowing is in winter.
    It is necessary to plant the seeds between December and January.
    In order for the sowing to be successful it will be necessary use well-ripened berries and sow them immediately after harvesting but this reproductive method has drawbacks.
    The myrtle seedlings that will be born will in fact be more delicate than the mother plant and will not be productive for about four years.
  • By cuttings
    The most common method of reproduction of the myrtle plant is undoubtedly that of the semi-woody cutting, which it must be done at the end of summer.
    Some branches are cut, preferably without flowers, buried in pots containing a mix of peat and sand, covered, kept in a warm place and, to favor rooting, make sure that the soil always remains moist. For the planting of the myrtle seedlings it is advisable to wait until the following spring.
    The seedlings reproduced through cuttings are as resistant as the mother plant and have the advantage of becoming productive within 2 years.

Diseases and pests of the myrtle plant

The myrtle plant is a very hardy and hardy plant but fears attacks by scale insects and aphids.
It is very important to prevent these pest insects because the sticky honeydew that forms on myrtle leaves, due to the presence of these pests, it can also lead to the development of some diseases of plants caused by fungi such as smoke or powdery mildew.
If the myrtle has been affected by one of these fungal diseases, and it is not cultivated for ornamental purposes only but you want to use the berries, it is better to avoid fungicidal products but it is better to use the Bordeaux mixture.


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Cultivating Abutilon

Its ideal environment consists of uncultivated land with damp earth or already cultivated fields and vegetable gardens. It is not a difficult plant to grow.

Habitat and temperature

The optimal climate for growing the plant is between 10 ° -15 ° but in winter it also adapts well to the cold (no less than 5 °). In cold weather, it is recommended to store it in a protected environment.

It needs light but does not want direct exposure to the sun, it loves the air but does not tolerate drafts, especially if it is cold.

Ground

The soil must consist of equal parts of peat and sand. The plant should be repotted every year in spring after the vegetative restart, making sure that the pot is a little bigger each time.

We recommend terracotta pots instead of plastic, because they allow the soil to breathe.

Watering

The plant is of tropical origin, loves humidity therefore, if the environment where it is kept is not sufficiently humid, it is advisable to nebulize the foliage regularly. In the event of a dry environment with heaters on, it is recommended to use humidifiers.

In the summer it goes watered often, even every day during the summer, so that the soil is always humid: water stagnation in the soil must be avoided

Fertilization

It is easy to grow but needs attention: for example, it should be consumed every two weeks from spring to late summer when watering.

We recommend a liquid fertilizer rich in nutritional properties such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, magnesium, iron, copper, zinc and boron: elements that are important for its growth.

Pruning

After the vegetative restart, at the beginning of spring the plant should be pruned regularly by removing the dry branches. It tends to grow quickly, especially if grown outdoors, so the branches should be cut regularly.


How to grow oriental lilies

Site selection is the most important aspect when planting an oriental lily. Choose a spot in full sun when growing oriental lily plants.

These bulbs cannot tolerate swampy soil, which means their planting bed should be tested for drainage and modified before installing the bulbs. Incorporate organic material into clay soils to increase drainage and nutrients.

Oriental lilies are available in the fall or spring. Wait to plant until spring in areas with sustained freezing. Install the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Orientation is very important when planting an oriental lily.

Some gardeners swear by adding some bone meal to the plantation, but this isn't strictly necessary. That said, it won't hurt to do anything. The bulbs should sprout and flower the first year. The bulbs can handle quite a bit of crowding and can also be installed in containers.


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Garlands of Chinese lanterns! Abutilon megapotamicum, also called Abutilon vexillarium, is a plant with abundant flowering that lasts from June until the first frosts, a lively shrub with a soft habit and exotic red and yellow pendulous flowers. It can be placed on a support or left free as a ground cover plant. Easy to grow and undemanding, it can be planted in the ground or in pots.

Flowering is record-breaking and almost uninterrupted from June until the first frosts, in mild climates even until late winter. The flowers are very original and hanging, with an exotic appearance, they consist of one red bell (united sepals) from which emerge i yellow petals and the purple-red pistils. The particular appearance and the arrangement along the branches make one think of Chinese lantern garlands.

Abutilon megapotamicum produces of thin green branches at first erect which gradually arch, becoming drooping and giving the plant a naturally covering habit. Vigoroso reaches about one meter in height and width if left free, but it can also be accompanied by a support (grids, poles, etc.) reaching in this case up to even at a height of 3m ! The soft branches carry some beautiful dark green elongated leaves, persistent in mild and deciduous climates below -5 ° C. The branches dry out at temperatures below -7 ° C / -10 ° C, but the plant starts again from the roots in spring!

How to grow Abutilon megapotanicum?

Rather easy to grow, abutilon megapotamicum is native to the south-tropical regions of South America and grows in all types of drained soil, including calcareous, moist and fresh preferably, in a sunny position. It tolerates aridity well but appreciates regular watering without excess to ensure blooms.

Cresce bene in vasi abbastabza grandi in un miscuglio di terra da giardino vegetale e terriccio in rapporto 1 :1. In tal caso richiede innaffiature regolari e senza eccessi apprezzando l’apporto di un concime per piante fiorite.

Nonostante le sue origini è caratterizzato da un’ottima rusticità fino a -7°C à -10°C. Nelle zone più fredde è quindi raccomandato procedere ad una protezione invernale come una pacciamatura. Può essere considerato come una pianta vivace da potare molto bassa ogni inizio di primavera, un po’ come la fucsia ricartonnii. Come le piante mediterrranee, gli agrumi o gli oleandri, poi, se coltivato in vaso, può essere vantaggioso metterlo all’interno in ottobre-novembre in un locale riparato dal gelo come un garage o una veranda non riscaldata.

La manutenzione si limita ad una potatura di pulizia in primavera che consiste a tagliare i rami secchi. Della materia organica come il Lombricompost aiuterà poi la ripresa vegetativa. Se si sceglie di utilizzarla come rampicante sarà bene dirigere e attaccare i rami ai supporti in quanto non è in grado di farlo da sola.

Dove piantare l’Abutilon megapotanicum ? Quali piante associare ?

L’abutilon megapotamicum può essere piantato isolatamente o lungo una linea o una palizzata o griglia se decidete di utilizzarla come pianta rampicante. Senza supporto invece sarà perfetta all’interno di aiuole associata ad altri arbusti o piante vivaci o come coprisuolo su scarpate o come ricadente lungo muretti. L’effetto bicolore dei fiori rossi e gialli permette di giocare piantandolo in compagnia ad esempio della rosa rampicante COCKTAIL ® Meimick dai bei fiori semplici rossi dal cuore giallo. Perfetta a fianco di piante mediterranee o esotiche come gli Agrumi o gli Oleandri, le Lagerstroemia, Bignonie, Passiflore, ecc.

Venduto in vasi da 1.5 litri, altezza 20/40 cm secondo le stagioni.


Oriental Lily Plant Care

I gigli sono una delle piante più facili da curare a meno che non si viva in una zona prona di cervi, dal momento che quelli in cerca di animali sembrano trovare i bulbi di giglio attraenti come le caramelle. Una volta che i bulbi fioriscono, tienili moderatamente umidi.

Quando si spargono le fioriture, taglia i gambi dei fiori ma lascia che le foglie rimangano gialle e inizino a morire. Ciò contribuirà ad alimentare la lampadina per la fioritura del prossimo anno. In autunno, pacciamare sull'area con pochi centimetri di pacciamatura di corteccia organica. Tirare via in primavera non appena si inizia a vedere i germogli.

Concimare i bulbi una volta all'anno in primavera con un buon fertilizzante a lenta cessione. Una volta ogni 3 anni circa, scavare i grappoli di bulbi e dividerli per aumentare le piante e migliorare i fiori. Se le fioriture sono eccessivamente grandi e cominciano a piegarsi, minacciando il gambo, basta puntarle fino a quando i fiori non vengono spesi.

La cura delle piante di giglio orientale è una delle più semplici. I giardinieri del nord usano cautela. Se si prevede un inverno rigido, potrebbe essere meglio scavare i bulbi e conservarli al chiuso, ripiantandoli in primavera.


Video: 25 PLANTS YOU CAN EASILY GROW IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN