Eggplant preferences, some farming techniques

Eggplant preferences, some farming techniques

Read the previous part: Growing eggplant seedlings

Traditionally, eggplant is considered to be a very demanding and capricious culture. In reality, he does not have any special whims, at least in more southern latitudes. But the heat-loving eggplant, of course, is excessive, and it absorbs fertilizers - just come on. Therefore, we can only adapt to his wishes or refuse to grow it.

At the same time, do not despair too much: modern early ripening hybrids allow you to get a normal eggplant harvest even with our unkind summer.

However, back to eggplant preferences, and there are quite a few of them.
1. For this culture, very fertile with a high humus content (up to 8%), light air-permeable soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction of the environment are needed. Heavy clay soils with a close groundwater table are not at all suitable for eggplant.
2. Eggplant is an extremely light-loving plant. No harvest with insufficient lighting can not be expected from it.
3. This culture is extremely thermophilic, and in this eggplant "with interest" surpasses both tomatoes and peppers. The optimum temperature for plant growth and development is + 20 ° C ... + 26 ° C.
4. Eggplants react extremely negatively to sudden temperature fluctuations.

At temperatures below + 12 ° C, eggplants stop developing. And they can't stand frost at all

5. Eggplants are very moisture-loving plants. Lack of moisture in the soil greatly reduces their yield, and the fruits can become bitter. At the same time, waterlogging can lead to the general development of diseases.

6. The root system of eggplant is powerful, but most of the roots are located in the upper layer of the soil, so a kind of paradox turns out. On the one hand, with the slightest lack of air in the soil, the plants cease to develop normally and form small ugly fruits, therefore, regular loosening is necessary. On the other hand, when loosening, you can easily damage the roots, to which the eggplants react extremely painfully. Therefore, it turns out that it is necessary to loosen, but not.

Obviously, the ideal solution in this position would be to mulch the soil around the plants with foliage or stale sawdust. The layer of mulching material should be decent so that when watering, there is no exposure of the soil or, which is completely undesirable, of the roots.

Eggplant roots are very demanding for aeration, do not tolerate compacted soils and in such conditions the eggplant does not produce a crop

How to improve the "mood" of your pets?
The main technique that greatly improves the condition of plants is spraying them with special stimulants. There are a lot of stimulants today. They have a different spectrum of action, but one way or another, they lead to an increase in the mood of plants, and as a result, to their faster development and intense fruiting.

What drugs to choose?
1. During the entire growing season of plants it is very good to carry out foliar dressing. As the best for this purpose, from my point of view (I take into account its price and effectiveness), it should be noted the drug "New Ideal" (1 cap per 1 liter of water).
2. In order to stimulate the development of plants about 1 time in 2-3 weeks, it is worth spraying them with growth stimulants: "Epin" or "Silk" (I usually use these preparations alternately).
3. At the beginning of fruiting, and then at the time of the main harvest, additional foliar dressing should be given with the drug "Two Harvests" (diluted measuring bucket into a bucket of water).

The subtleties of agricultural technology

Of course, I probably unnecessarily mention this, but, like all heat-loving crops, eggplant should be watered only with very warm water (33 ° C ... 35 ° C), otherwise stress for the plants will be inevitable. And stress, as you know from your own experience, does not lead to good.

Top dressing
Eggplants, in general, accumulate a very large vegetative mass, therefore, when cultivating them, a significant dose of fertilizer is required. This is especially true for intensive type hybrids. This means that they require fractional application of increased doses of fertilizers and at the same time please us with a considerable harvest. Fractional fertilization is carried out through a series of continuous fertilizing.

The first three weeks after planting are usually sufficient for the plants to be fertilized in advance. But only then you should start regular feeding, and at the same time do not be lazy. A delay with just one of them can lead to a decrease in yield.

I recommend feeding once a week. At the same time, it is impossible to give a certain standard scheme, since eggplants react extremely sharply to a lack of any element, and soils, as you know, are different for everyone. Therefore, I will give an example of feeding, but each time you must carefully observe your plants and act in accordance with the results of observations. The only thing I would like to note is that eggplants have an increased need for potash fertilizers. Therefore, potash dressings have to be carried out more often than, for example, with tomatoes.

So, pay attention to the approximate feeding scheme.
1 time - feed with nitrophos or any other complex fertilizer, simply scattering it in handfuls between the bushes; then you should water the soil with slurry;
2 times - sprinkle superphosphate and ash;
3 times - pour slurry over the soil and sprinkle ash on the soil again;
4 times - fertilize with "Magbor" fertilizer (pre-dilute 1 tbsp. A spoonful of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water) mixed with a pre-infused complex fertilizer.

Fertilizers potassium sulfate and "Magbor" can be mixed in one bucket of water

Then every week you should alternately feed with ash or potassium sulfate (previously diluting 2 tablespoons of fertilizer for 1 bucket of water) mixed with the infused complex fertilizer "Universal". And once every two weeks add "Magbor" fertilizer to this mixture (after diluting 1 tbsp. A spoonful of fertilizer for 1 bucket of water).

When feeding potassium sulfate, you need to remember that in sunny weather it is required less, and in damp and cloudy weather - more. Therefore, the dose of this fertilizer in bad weather should be increased: instead of 1 tbsp. spoons put 2 tbsp. spoons on a bucket

To keep your pets from getting sick

1. Eggplants are highly susceptible to all kinds of rot. Moreover, rotting areas can occur both on the trunk (as a result, a single shoot or even the whole plant perishes), and on the leaves or on the root collar. Therefore, in no case should water get on the plants themselves: watering the soil should be carried out at some distance from them.

Secondly, it is necessary to sprinkle crushed charcoal around the plants periodically, especially in cold and humid weather (if there is a shortage, it can sometimes be replaced with ash).

2. To reduce the risk of diseases, as well as to increase the immunity of plants, you should regularly carry out preventive spraying 1 time in 10-14 days with the drug "Immunocytofit" (1 tablet per 2 liters of water). This will greatly increase the defenses of plants. I usually start treating plants with this drug from about mid-July at intervals of two weeks, and even earlier in cold rainy summers.

3. Do not forget about regular ventilation of the greenhouse.

About shaping and garter

If you have already grown eggplants, you should have paid attention to the fact that they branch very strongly. And if this process is not taken under control, then a shock amount of eggplant tops will be provided to you by autumn. Therefore, most of the shoots-stepsons in our conditions, naturally, have to be removed. Usually 3-4 shoots are left; their number, in general, depends on the availability of light space and weather conditions.

The main condition is that all shoots must be in the light. As for the numerous flowers, some of them also have to be sacrificed, given that in a bad summer, more than 5-7 fruits on one plant cannot be obtained. If the weather is favorable, then you can leave more ovaries. In other words, it all depends on the specific circumstances.

According to official figures, eggplant plants do not require a garter. However, I disagree with this statement. Plants without fruit do stand well and do just fine without a garter. But with the appearance of fruits, and also in order to improve the light conditions of individual shoots, I tie individual trunks to pegs. This greatly improves the light regime and prevents the shoots from leaning close to the ground (which means that it reduces the risk of moisture getting on the leaves, for example, when watering).

I would also like to say about the sanitary pruning of eggplants, which consists in the removal of yellow and diseased leaves.

In addition, when the first flowers appear on the plants, it is better to cut off all the shoots below the flowers, as well as any leaves that have begun to turn yellow or touch the ground. Otherwise, they will be the first contenders for food, and it will be the last to reach the flowers that appear.


Harvesting takes place from about the end of July to the end of August, as the fruits form and acquire a characteristic color for the variety. You can usually start harvesting about three to four weeks after flowering begins. Lightening of the fruits should not be allowed, since during this period their bitterness increases and, naturally, the taste deteriorates. When harvesting, the fruits are cut off with a piece of the stalk with scissors or shears, but in no case are they torn off, since this way you can break off the whole shoot. It happens that as a result of such breaking out, a sufficiently large wound is formed, and this is already a direct gateway for infection.

A delay in the start of harvesting or leaving at least one fruit until the seeds are fully ripe leads to inhibition of the growth of the vegetative mass and premature wilting of plants.

Fruit collection is completed before frost.

The harvested crop is not subject to long-term storage, therefore, it is better to process the fruits immediately or eat them.

The younger the fruits, the tastier and more tender they are, but, of course, you should not pick very small ones.

Flowers, as we all know well, prefer to fall for a variety of reasons.

1. Primarily, simply as a result of poor pollination. Eggplant is a self-pollinating plant, and its pollen is heavy, carried by the wind no more than 1 meter, and in a greenhouse there is usually no strong wind. And the reason for this is very serious: heat-loving plants do not like drafts. Therefore, pollination in protected ground conditions is largely difficult.

2. Secondly, due to the sterility of the pollen, which happens quite often at too high temperatures, insufficient humidity, cold weather (for example, at 18 ° C ... 20 ° C, the fruits are no longer set) and strong temperature changes.

To protect yourself from crop loss as a result of falling flowers, you should take appropriate measures in a timely manner.

1. Flowering plants need to be regularly shaken a little so that pollen spills out of the anthers and falls on the stigma of the pistil. It is preferable to do this in the morning hours, which are most favorable for fertilization.

2. Better yet, from the very beginning of flowering, once a week, treat the plants with fruit-forming stimulants (preparations "Gibbersib" or "Ovary"). This will reliably help you solve the problem of ovary dropping.

Why are the fruits small?

Unfortunately, we have to observe such a phenomenon quite often. To be honest, there are plenty of reasons for the appearance of only small fruits.

1. This is a small (less than 8%) percentage of humus in the soil, and as a result - poor plant nutrition. And in our Ural podzol of humus and 1% will not be typed. Therefore, it is your direct task to ensure a high humus content in the greenhouse. Without this, eggplants should not be planted.

2. Heavy texture of the soil, in which the roots of eggplant suffocate in the literal sense of the word.

3. Irregular watering, which allows drying out of the surface layer and roots located too close to the surface.

4. Poor illumination of both plants in general and their inflorescences.

5. Poor-quality pollination of flowers due to unfavorable weather conditions.

Read the next part: Eggplant recipes →

S. Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg

Read all parts of the article "Different colors of eggplants"
• Part 1. What is good about eggplant and where did it come from
• Part 2. Eggplant colors: a choice of varieties
• Part 3. Growing eggplant seedlings
• Part 4. Eggplant preferences, some farming techniques
• Part 5. Eggplant recipes

A site about a garden, a summer residence and houseplants.

In 2012, we had not just hail, but a terrible natural disaster, completely uncharacteristic for our regions: a stormy wind breaking trees, deafening thunder, a nightmare downpour and hail in three steps that covered the entire earth. Whoever had a garden with a slope, all the plantings just floated away. Many dropped their hands when they signed the verdict on the harvest.

Yes, there was something to fall into despair. I almost became a stutterer myself when I saw what the elements had done to my household ... Several beds were washed away cleanly. Peppers, eggplants and tomatoes were so mixed with the dirt that the plants could hardly be distinguished in this mess, and the leaves became lacy due to the abundance of holes in them. The scourge of flowering cucumbers not only fell out in the mud, but also messed up. The tops of the corn have broken.

In general, all the plants in the garden have taken a horizontal position. It was difficult to immediately make the right decision where to start the rescue work. Yes, however, for another whole day it was impossible to enter the garden without fear of leaving boots in the swamps. And then the children came, we sat, thought, calmed each other and outlined a work plan. We conditionally divided them into two stages: preparatory and agrotechnical.

Diseases and pests

The plant can suffer from attacks by spider mites, scale insects and aphids. This happens when the requirements of agricultural technology are violated.

With a nutritional deficiency, the leaves of the xanthosome turn yellow. In low light, the patterning disappears on the leaves. If the irrigation schedule is violated, then rhizome decay occurs.

Xanthosoma in room culture is considered a long-liver. Subject to the conditions of agricultural technology, the flower is easy to grow and propagate. The plant is very unpretentious, but beautiful, fits perfectly into the design of any room.

Description of the plant

The variety of sedum species is striking in its diversity: most of them are perennials, but there are rare varieties of annual and biennial herbaceous crops. Among the species diversity there are undersized shrubs, ampelous hanging plants, ground cover herbaceous flowers.

Their foliage is very different in color and shape, and the size often makes you doubt the true genus. The shape can resemble barrels, balls, needles, shoulder blades, be naked and pubescent, vary in color from yellow to green and even reddish.

The edges of the foliage are solid and with denticles along the edge, and the arrangement on the branches is alternate, whorled and opposite.

Particularly attractive are small flowers, which are most often collected in inflorescences, but can also be single. Flower shades are varied: yellow, pink, white, red, blue. Each flower has five petals, the inflorescences are located on top, therefore, when the ground cover sedum blooms, it seems that underfoot is a bright soft carpet.

Sedum is unusually decorative, from spring to late autumn, it attracts with its equanimity of character when many flowers have already completed their growing season.

He seems to be going to bloom all year round, not going to prepare for hibernation, in spite of the cold weather continues to remain attractive and calm until late autumn. Sedum spectabile (S. prominent) grows up to 70 cm, has large leaves in the form of an oval with teeth along the rim, pink or lilac flowers.

Among the varieties, the most common are: Carmen, Iceberg, Neon, Brilliant.

Growing onions from seeds

It just so happened that I like to eat onions only fresh, so very little of this valuable vegetable is eaten during the winter. Leek is another matter: it appears in many recipes, and I love to cook. It is difficult to buy such a bow in a store: it is sold very rarely. So I decided to grow leeks myself.

Last December, I went to the store for seeds. The selection of onions was very large, but leeks were represented by only one variety - 'Karantansky'. But I won't be myself if I don't grab a couple more bags of seeds that I like. So I brought home the seeds of a large onion 'Exhibiting', and red 'Retro' and 'Red Baron'.

I went for a leek, bought a onion

I have no practice of growing onions at all. I remember how, as a child, my grandmother sowed one bed with black onions, bulbs grew on the second (grown from last year's black ones), and the bulbs for seeds stood apart.

I had to read and listen to lectures from our local center for natural farming. In mid-February, I started preparing the soil for onion seedlings. Since I have not stored the soil since autumn, I had to buy 10 liters of ready-made universal peat soil, mix it with a soaked briquette (3 liters) of coconut substrate and a liter of vermicompost. I added half a glass of Shining 2 bacteria and, after good mixing, packed it into a bag and left it to “ripen” for 3 weeks.

This is the picture we were shown in the center. Onion seedlings were grown in a container 4 cm high and in a bucket 10 cm high. The care was the same, but the onions grew differently.

Therefore, for my seedlings, I took deep disposable food packaging.

10th of March poured the already ripe soil and pressed it lightly. I made shallow grooves with a ruler with a distance of 2 cm between them.

Separately, I counted how many "pieces" of onions I need for a 4-meter garden bed in 2 or 3 rows. It turned out, about 70. Therefore, I sowed with a reserve: 80 leek seeds and 26 of each variety of onions.

I allocated a separate bowl for the leek, and another for the onion. She sprinkled the planted seeds with earth by 0.5 cm. And then ... she boiled the kettle.

Planting onions on March 10

Onion seeds have a lot of essential oils, so the seedlings emerge after the oils are washed off. This can be achieved by washing the seeds in warm water. But 20-30 seeds are too lazy to wash, especially since they are processed by Thiram at Exhibishen.

Therefore, she boiled the kettle. She poured boiling water into an ordinary ceramic glass and took an ordinary iron tablespoon. She scooped up boiling water with a spoon and poured the onion. She scooped up again - poured. I changed the spoon and continued watering.

It takes a long time to describe, but in practice everything is very fast. Boiling water poured into a cold ceramic glass cools slightly, then we scoop this water with a cold spoon, and part of the heat goes to it, so the water cools down. I changed the spoon because it heated up quickly and the water might be too hot. In general, the water temperature should be 60-70 ° C.

After watering the onion, I closed it with a bag and put it on the warm floor in the bathtub.

March 17 the first loops appeared, and on March 26 there were already a lot of seedlings. They climbed out in even rows, like spears!

March 26, the germination of leeks is excellent, 'Exibishen' is also great

Conditions of detention

Watering is carried out once a week. Together with watering I do top dressing: once with liquid biohumus "Gumistar", next week - with diluted preparation Radiance 2. Also, once a week I sprayed with bio cocktail: 1 granule of Healthy Garden + 1 granule of Ekoberin + 1 drop of HB 101 per half liter of water.

The onion is placed on a rack with phytolamp illumination during the day and is put away on a cold window at night. We have a plastic window, but it is very cold: at night the temperature on the windowsill is only 9 ° C warm, in the daytime +15. This temperature is good for onions and cloves.

Seedling rack made by my husband.

9 april - almost a month from the day of landing. Leeks grow straight up under the phytolamp. Steadfast soldier.

April 9th, the onion grows upwards

Suddenly, the space on the rack ran out and the bow moved to a permanent habitat to the window. See how he wants light and reaches out for it.

April 23 - the bow reaches for the light

Although the window is oriental, there is little light, because of the canopy of the roof, and the sun "shines" only for a couple of hours. It was necessary to put a reflector.

The rest of the care remains the same.

The spring was long, cold, every week I ran to our Center for Natural Agriculture and asked: well, when to plant in the ground? And now this moment has come!

May 10 The bed was loosened, the strings were stretched and in the loose and wet soil began to make holes for onions. Here I made a mistake: I did not look at the planting scheme for each bow separately. It turns out that 'Retro' and 'Red Baron' could be planted every 5-10 cm, and I gave him as much as 20 cm for growth.

Soaking the onions to take them out without damaging the roots

I put the bowls with onions in a bowl with water and drops of HB 101, soaked the roots. Then she took out the whole lump and "ripped" the onion into separate plants.

This is how onions grew

These are onions, small heads have grown, roots and a long feather, but you don't need to plant such. I carry out the shortening of the feather and roots.

One of the red onions after a haircut

I plant neat green tails in the garden. For onions: a bed of 70 * 400 cm, 2 rows, between which are root celery. I make a "hole" with a stick, lower the bow there so that the head is slightly visible above the ground, and all the roots look down, I press the side of the soil. Everything. Simply and easily.

Seed onions planted in the garden on May 10

The leeks went through the same pruning, but planted already according to the scheme of 3 rows and 15-20 cm between the plants (by eye). Here I was confused by the words of many sites, where it was said that “it is necessary to plant in trenches, but do not deepen the bottom when planting. Then add earth. "

Therefore, I made the same holes and poked the seedlings. The husband said that he would then put the boards from the boards. (I had to take a receipt.)

To protect the onions from flies, I poured sawdust into the yogurt cups and dripped a couple of drops of tar. I put 2 such cups on each bed. To prevent the cats from lying around in my bow, I put arcs with covering material.

This is a leek garden planted on May 15th. Such thin blades of grass and you can not immediately notice.

Spring went on as usual, for 2 weeks I did not touch the beds. After watering during planting, no more watering. I just sometimes looked to see if the bows had faded. But the weather was damp, cool and the onions were fine.

May 27 - planting eggplant seedlings on the nose. She freed the garden from grown mustard and mulched the garden with leeks with cut greens (chopped with pruning shears). Sprinkled Shine under the mulch2. By this time, the leeks had grown stronger and began to look like garlic. After a couple of days, I removed the covering material to cover the eggplant seedlings.
By the way, mustard got to onions a little later, but it was also mulched.

Leek mulching with mustard May 27

June 18 The leeks are growing, the mustard is completely wilted.

June 18 - leeks grow

Summer care

So, at the beginning of June, the warming began and I began to irrigate: once a week, on Saturdays, several buckets, or rather watering cans, per garden bed. The next morning, on wet soil, watered with herbal infusion.

For a 12 liter bucket (there are no barrels), a bunch of all kinds of grass to take up 2/3 of the capacity. She took weeds, mustard, nettles. I poured 0.5 cups Radiance 3, 0.5 cups of diluted Radiance 1, 1 glass of sugar or old jam, a handful of Orgavit. Everything insisted from 4 days (in the heat) to 1 week in cool weather. In a watering can for 8 liters of water, she diluted 100 ml of the finished infusion and watered the plants with rain. A couple of watering cans in the garden. Straight on the mulch. Beneficial bacteria decomposed fresh organic matter literally before our eyes. The mustard had to be replaced with coarser grass within a few weeks.

Every Monday I went with a bucket to my plantings. In a bucket I mixed loose vermicompost and Orgavit, sometimes I added ash and mustard cake. With such delicious food, I supplied cucumbers, strawberries, raspberries and leeks, literally adding a pinch under each plant. Be sure to make sure that at least 1-2 Orgavit granules got in.

With such a top dressing, already in the middle of summer, the leek grew thick.

Summer was very hot, in the sun - up to 46. Onions, although they love this kind of sun, need watering. They clearly did not have enough water, but despite this, Exhibichen poured its golden sides, and the relatives, looking at him, were surprised that it was grown from seeds.

Leeks were a novelty for many neighbors, and I constantly explained that they were not garlic, but onions. She promised to treat her.

In early August, the onions were removed from the garden. Here it is, on the table.

Onions after digging

'Red Baron'
12 onions, 794 g, 115 g is the largest onion. 66 g average onion weight :)
'Exhibition' 16 onions, 1715 u, 220 g - the largest, average weight 107 g.
'Retro' 9 bulbs, 618 g, the largest weighed 96 g, 68 g average weight.

Although the harvest is small, it is partly my fault: I did not water, I didn’t feed enough. And the land on the site after the previous owners is not very :(

The leeks were left to grow further. In August, I realized that my husband would no longer make the sides for the garden. It doesn't work out, so I began to make caps, which also did not go to everyone.

I made caps for leeks from foil foam, something like that

2 October the first snow fell. These are beets, all in a snowdrift.

Beets in a snowdrift

This is a leek, covered with a cover. She walked to the garden bed through the snow and touched the leaves - they froze. She burst into tears - so much work ... and everything froze.

Leeks in the snow

The 4th of October - the snow has melted. The leek also came to life, I began to twitch him. But he doesn't want to! I had to dig with a shovel. I have never seen such a brush of roots that lifts 20 cm of soil behind it. And the stems themselves, hoo, how thick. Yes, the bleach failed. But the first time I planted it!

Leek cleaning 2 days after snow

Some bows even have babies.

The kids have gone to the main stem

And this one looks like a brownie in a dress :)

Brownie, eyes and mouth are drawn

By the way, when digging, the onion breaks easily in the leg, so 2 pieces had to be eaten urgently.

Thick Leg of Unbleached Leek

The foil version was not very good, as the leaves underneath were decaying and rotting.

She treated her neighbors, relatives, her 2 buckets of "soldiers" are on a pillow of sand.

Leek harvest

I tried it when frying. Together with autumn vegetables - very tasty! Yes, the Exhibit bow really does not cause tears. I crumbled a huge onion into a salad without a single tear, and chopped a small head of 'Stuttgarten Riesen' into borscht - all wept.

This is how my bow was born.

P.S. She also planted shallots from the sevka on a separate bed. I planted it in ridges, which crumbled during watering and the onion was bare. I don’t know, but it seems like a shallot should be a family one and give a lot of small onions, but this one grew up in long cylinders with a palm size.

Will I plant onion seedlings next year? YES! And probably I will take into account the peculiarities of planting medium-sized bows, I will plant more often. I will also water more abundantly.

Primroses or ephemeroids are plants with a very short growing season. They bloom in early spring, pleasing the eye and attracting pollinators to the garden. After flowering, leaves are preserved for some time, which help to set aside a supply of food for wintering. When the leaves die off, the vital functions inside the onion do not stop. The underground organ actively builds up mass, lays flower stalks and forms babies, in order to please the gardener with bright colors again next season.

The popularity of primroses is due to their unpretentious nature, winter hardiness. But certain species require special care and storage technology for the bulbs. Among primroses, the following crops are especially popular:

  • snowdrop (galanthus)
  • anemone (anemone)
  • crocus (saffron)
  • chionodox
  • scilla (scilla)
  • iridodictum
  • muscari
  • Pushkin.

Galanthus is the earliest representative of primroses, its snow-white buds literally peep out from under the remnants of the snow cover. The snowdrop belongs to the Amaryllis family, there are 18 species in the genus, about 250 hybrid forms have been bred.

The perennial ephemeroid has a very short growing season. The bulb consists of three scales, the diameter of the head is 2-3 cm, the rest period lasts 9 months. The bush forms 2-3 lanceolate leaves, appearing simultaneously with the buds. The surface of the plates is shiny or covered with a wax coating. The flower is small, 1.5-3 cm long, tolerates frost down to -10⁰C. The corolla consists of two rows of petals - three outer ones are snow-white, oval, and three inner ones are wedge-shaped, have a green speck at the base. The aroma is attractive, but subtle. There are some seeds inside the three-chambered box. The seed is supplied with an appendage, carried by ants.

Galanthus is easily propagated by seeds and children, gives self-seeding. The heads are planted in the fall in a well-lit flat place that excludes stagnant water. Snowdrops are not afraid of fluctuations in the temperature background, they are frost-resistant. They need a loose nutritious substrate, in the spring I require moisture. Potassium-phosphorus dressing is applied once until the decay of the deciduous mass. The transplant is carried out every 5-6 years.

Spring anemones are of botanical and hybrid origin. The simple structure of the corolla does not make the anemone less attractive. The fluffy center of the flower consists of many stamens and pistils. It is framed by simple oval petals, in the amount of 5 to 20 or more pieces. Corolla diameter 3-5 cm, in crown anemones up to 8 cm. Flowers are simple or double, collected in a loose umbellate inflorescence. The height of the bushes is from 30-50 cm. The palette is very diverse.

Hybrid varieties have low winter hardiness and require reliable shelter. They grow well under the canopy of trees and shrubs, prefer a loose substrate rich in organic matter with a neutral environment. They do not tolerate excess moisture, they are drought-resistant. The transplant is carried out every 8-10 years, since the anemone does not tolerate it well. The curtain is prone to rapid growth, it is recommended to dig in a slate or plastic stopper.

Crocus is an indigenous inhabitant of Africa, the Caucasus, Central Asia and Europe. This corm species belongs to the Iris family. The bulbs reach a diameter of 3 cm, form a basal bundle of linear or lanceolate leaves. Often, flowering begins before the appearance of greenery. Corollas are large, funnel-shaped, consisting of 6 petals.

The color is blue, blue, lilac, snow-white, orange, yellow. Bright yellow or orange stigmas have long been used as a spice called saffron. The decorative period falls in early spring, but some varieties bloom in autumn. The decorative period lasts 2-3 weeks.

Spring bulbs are planted in the fall before frost. The nests are planted every 3 years. Planting depth 2-3 onion heights. The soil should be well structured and contain organic matter. The culture does not need special care. Choose a sunny site, where the melt water will not stay for a long time. Reproduction by children and seeds.

Chionodox is called the snow beauty. The birthplace of exotic is the mountainous regions of Turkey. The genus is included in the Proleskovye family. Small bulbs produce two leaves 6-8 cm long and about 20 mm wide. The height of the bush is 8-20 cm, the peduncle is 10 cm long.Flower brushes contain 2-3 stars of blue pink or blue color with a sparkling snow-white center. Bud diameter up to 35 mm. The decorative period is 3-4 weeks.

Chionodoxes are located in openwork partial shade or in the open sun. The curtains grow quickly and require transplanting every 4-5 years. The culture is winter-hardy, drought-resistant, but during the flowering period it needs moderate watering and the introduction of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Loves loose nutrient substrates.

Proleska (scilla) is a genus of herbaceous perennials from the Asparagus family. The genus includes about 90 species that can be found in meadows and mountain slopes in Africa, Asia, and Europe. Blue, pink, white or blue stars are collected in loose brushes. The image of the scilla is complemented by long stamens, there are few leaves. Ephemeroid prefers partial shade and good drainage.

The scrub is undemanding to care for. The full mineral complex is brought in in the fall, watered in the spring if necessary. When planting, the soil is enriched with humus, compost. Scylla is reproduced by self-seeding or by children, nests are transplanted every 5 years.

Iridodiktum is a rather rare guest of flower beds from Turkey, Iran, and the Caucasus. The genus is included in the iris family. Long lanceolate leaves have 3-4 edges. The flowers outwardly resemble irises, the color is from white to purple, the aroma is delicate, refined. The buds appear before the development of deciduous mass.

It is undemanding to soil, drought-resistant, but often suffers from winter thaws, so it is recommended to mulch autumn plantings with peat. Iridodictum prefers open sunny areas. In regions with abundant summer precipitation, the heads are recommended to be dug out after falling into a dormant period, and in the fall to be planted in a permanent place. Up to 5 years without a transplant.

Muscari looks like a tiny hyacinth with small drooping bells. For this he was nicknamed the mouse hyacinth. The name viper bow is also found. The bells are collected in dense brushes, the color of the corollas is blue, purple, white. The aroma is intense with hints of musk. The height of the bush is 10-30 cm, there are terry forms.

Winter hardiness and unpretentious nature made muscari a favorite of gardeners. In the spring, organic matter is introduced, monitored for a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil. Muscari is picky about watering, loves the sun. Hibernates without shelter, seating every 5 years. During the season, the onion gives a lot of tiny children, so the next year the curtain will expand.

Pushkinia is a small-bulbous relative of scilla and hyacinth. The growth of the bush is 15-20 cm, the foliage is fleshy, rosette. The flowers are similar to the buds of a scrub, but near the throat they have a small crown. The corolla is white or blue. In hyacinth Pushkinia, star-shaped buds with a blue vein, in the boreal tree, bell-shaped. Agrotechnology is similar to the cultivation of scilla, but for the winter planting is mulched with peat to a height of 5 cm.

Strawberry propagation

Ripening strawberries in the garden

Bush strawberry propagation is carried out in two ways - seed and bush.

Each bush of a plant consists of several horns containing apical and axillary buds, a rosette of several leaves and adventitious roots. The most prolific and hardy plants are selected for bush propagation. After harvesting, they are dug up and divided into separate horns.

When selecting horns for planting, you must carefully inspect them. Brown roots are removed by updating the root system. It is important to notice diseased specimens in time and remove them from the planting material, otherwise the disease will be transmitted to new plants.

The horns are soaked for 4-8 hours in a solution of any root growth stimulator. After that, they are dried a little, the leaf blades are cut in half and the plants are planted in pre-prepared holes.

Bush propagation has several advantages:

  • Division can be done after harvest.
  • The plant can give a crop already in the year of planting (when carrying out the reproduction procedure in the spring).
  • The selection of hardy specimens helps to increase the future yield.
  • Saplings have a high survival rate.
  • The division procedure can be carried out practically throughout the entire season.

The split horns can be left to grow to increase survival. To do this, they are planted in containers with fertile soil, watered and left in greenhouse conditions for a month and a half. Fortified plants are planted in open ground.

Perfect harvest of strawberries

For seed reproduction, the seed can be prepared independently or bought in specialized stores. Ripe berries are selected from healthy bushes of strawberries, seeds are cut out of them with a part of the pulp and laid out to dry on filter paper. After drying, the material is ground to remove the remnants of the fruit.

The seeds keep well for several years in canvas bags or glass jars.

Sowing is carried out at the end of February in containers with a substrate of sand, black soil, peat and humus. The seeds are poured onto the surface of the soil. A small layer of the same substrate is applied on top. The plantings are moistened and placed on the windowsill.

After the appearance of 2-3, and then 6-7 true leaves, the shoots dive. Around the end of May, the formed bushes are planted in open ground.

While watching the video, you will learn about growing strawberries.

Shrub strawberries have a number of advantages that allow even inexperienced gardeners to breed them. High yield, unpretentiousness to growing conditions and resistance to diseases contributes to the popularization of these varieties among lovers of tasty and healthy berries.

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