How I "missed" the seedlings and did not get the desired harvest
I decided last summer to plant on my site zucchini and watermelons... I chose seeds for a long time, and chose the varieties of zucchini Rolik and Beloplodny, and I liked the varieties Malysh and Skorik for watermelons.
At the dacha, I soaked the seeds and the very next day I planted them in cups (one seed per cup) filled with a soil mixture, which I prepared as follows: I poured five glasses of ash and half a glass of complex fertilizer onto a bucket of dry river silt. Stir the mixture well, put it in cups and spill it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The cup was 8 cm high, 6 cm wide, and 8 cm long.
To make the seeds sprout faster, I put the cups with the sown seeds in the thermostat. It maintained the same temperature around the clock, equal to 26 ° C. The heat accelerated seed germination. Watermelon seeds sprouted on the second day, and zucchini seeds on the fifth. The rest of the time, before planting the plants in open ground, I kept seedlings in the room on the beds. By the end of May, she looked healthy and strong.
In previous years, before planting seedlings in open ground, I hardened it gradually: I took it outside in the open sun for one hour, then left it there for two hours. And so with each new day lengthened the time of her stay in the open sun. The seedlings gradually got used to solar radiation and then grew normally in the beds.
Last season, I planted seedlings in the garden right away, without preliminary hardening. Zucchini moved to the open ground on June 4, and watermelons - after another four days.
For several days she covered the planted seedlings from the sun, but this was not enough for her. Three days after planting zucchini seedlings, I noticed that her stems and part of the leaves were burnt. Apparently because of this, nutrition from the roots along the stem did not come abundantly enough, and the seedlings began to hurt, their growth slowed down. But she continued to struggle for her existence and grew slowly.
After three weeks, the zucchini adapted to the external conditions. They gradually grew new leaves, which were no longer afraid of solar radiation. But there was a trace of burns on the stem (see photo)... Fortunately, he turned out to be not fatal for zucchini of these varieties. At the beginning of July, they already gave their first fruits. And then the zucchini bore fruit until mid-October.
Seedlings of watermelons, alas, did not please me. I planted it in open ground four days later than the seedlings of squash. Due to the active sun, her stems and part of the leaves burned, like the seedlings of zucchini. In this regard, there was insufficient nutrition from the roots along the stem, and the seedlings of watermelons began to hurt. For a month, she fought for her existence, but, not having tempering, she gradually died. A month later, the last watermelon bush died, which never gave a single peduncle.
Based on my sad experience, I want to say that the main thing is not only to grow healthy seedlings, but also correctly, according to the technology, to plant them in open ground... It is important to protect it at an early stage of growth, not only from cold weather, but also from excess heat and burning sun, from excess solar radiation, which is becoming more and more in our suburbs every year.
Dmitry Mamontov, gardener
Photo by the author
Greenhouse maintenance in spring before planting and growing peppers
Wherever we live, transplanting seedlings begins with preparatory work. After harvesting, we remove all debris from the soil.
In the spring, we start by treating the walls inside the structure with special devices, potassium permanganate, and laundry soap.
It is necessary to process a polycarbonate greenhouse in the spring before planting for several reasons:
- over the past year, the walls have become dusty and their light transmission capacity has worsened
- fungal spores or other infection may remain on the surface
We clear the soil from debris, weeds and roots. We process the soil from harmful insects, diseases and their pathogens.
If the land is fertile, you can simply fertilize it. But many gardeners make high beds or combined. How to do it? They dig around the perimeter of the garden to a depth of 15-35 cm. I repeat once again, if your land is well manured and fertile enough, you can not do this.
Next, we make fences to a height of 15-30 cm (from boards, slate or any other material). The beds should not only be fertile. But with good drainage, and also have the ability to retain moisture.
In loams or clay soil, they are applied per 1 sq. m. 2 kilograms of compost, humus and 1 glass of ash. Then we dig it up, level it. The width of the strips is up to 1 meter, the length is according to possibilities and desires. We spill them with hot water, so we warm the soil.
Then we make holes and in each of them we pour at least 2 liters of warm water with preparations (for 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of potassium humate, 10 g of root). Or we apply any phosphorus or potash fertilizers without chlorine, be sure to read the instructions.
The best predecessors for this vegetable are legumes, cucumbers, onions.
Choosing the right place
Planting crops in a polycarbonate greenhouse, greenhouses requires a competent approach. How and where we place them in many respects depends on how much we will get the crop. For example, if we place the tall ones closer to the walls, that is, to the sunlight, then they will block the light of the undersized neighbors. It is recommended to do the opposite.
We plant the plants in the late afternoon, so they will more easily transfer the movement. We deepen them to the first true leaves.
Do not forget to stick pegs next to each tall pet in order to tie them to them in the future.
How to choose the right tree seedlings
Not only do the seedlings need a clear and consistent description of the ideal appearance, but also the seedlings. In order not to buy a "pig in a poke", you need to clearly know what to look for when buying a seedling.
The main rules for choosing seedlings
- A young seedling is ideal for planting. You should not chase after mature trees, because the seedling should have one and a half to two years after successful grafting. It is these seedlings that are worth buying, as they quickly and successfully adapt to the new environment.
- The root collar is the main selection criterion. Inspection of a young seedling should start from the root collar - a place just above the roots. The root collar of the seedlings should not be even, there must be a bend, where there is a small "stump", which symbolizes the place where the rootstock is cut. Examine this place carefully, it should not be open, as this indicates the presence of a fungal disease.
- Ideal data for a seedling. The average height of the seedling is 1.5-3 meters, excluding the root system, since the height should be measured starting from the grafting site. The surface of the seedling is smooth, there are no significant flaws.
- The main thing in a seedling is the root, not the thickness and height of the stem. A healthy and voluminous root without significant breakages and injuries is what you should pay attention to, because with a strong root system, the stem will quickly become thick at the main place of growth, which cannot be said about a weak root. The root should be dense, even "lush". The presence of the main root without shoots is a signal that this seedling is not worth buying. When sold, the root system should not be open to sunlight, because literally a couple of hours earlier, a good seedling can completely die and become unsuitable for planting. Choose a seedling where there is at least minimal root protection. Most often, they use special soil or clay bedding, wet sawdust or a regular bag. The main thing is to close the root from access to air.
- Purchase of an adult seedling. If the seedling is about 5 years old, then its sale is possible only in a container with a closed root system.
- Selection of a seedling of a proven variety.Before buying a young seedling, you should clearly understand what you want and know the list of varieties. You should not go for an unprepared seedling, since the sellers have the first goal - to sell what they have, so they can present any of their varieties many times better than what you are looking for.
The correct choice of seedlings and seedlings is the key to successful cultivation and a rich harvest. Do not neglect the recommendations, because the result of your work depends on it.
- When to sow eustoma seedlings
- Eustoma outdoor cultivation
- Perennial eustoma: planting and care
- Care during cultivation
- Diseases and pests
The charming eustoma flower photo and description of which you will find in this article cannot but conquer with its grace, tenderness and charming beauty. In addition, caring for him is quite simple and affordable.
In the wild, this rose-like flower can be found in the southern regions of America, Mexico and the Caribbean. This plant is very popular among flower growers who grow it for cut. After cutting, the flowers stand in the water for a long time, retaining their decorative effect for several weeks.
It is a plant with massive stems very similar to those of a carnation. Branching of shoots starts from the middle of the length. Therefore, during the flowering period, each branch looks like a whole bouquet. About 30-35 flowers can bloom on one shoot. Moreover, they are revealed one by one. Each flower has a funnel-shaped, rather large and deep calyx.
The leaves of the flower are lanceolate or oval, grayish-bluish hue. Due to the variety of varieties, the color of flowers is very diverse - from snow-white to dark burgundy. Among them there are also two-colored species with double or simple flowers.
Is eustoma an annual or a perennial? In its natural environment, it is a biennial plant. In the country or in the garden, this flower is grown as an annual. At home, this plant is used as a perennial.
Depending on the purpose of cultivation, eustoma is divided into two varieties - these are tall species growing on a cut and low-growing plants for planting at home.
The first group includes:
Aurora is a terry tall species, reaching 1-1.2 m in height. Terry Aurora blooms with blue, white, blue or pink flowers. It is prized for long, abundant and early flowering that starts a couple of weeks earlier than other species.
- Echo is a medium-sized garden culture, up to 70 cm high with spreading branches and large flowers. This is one of the early flowering hybrids. The Echo variety has many varieties, among which there are monochromatic and two-colored species.
Heidi is a tall flower reaching 1 m in height. It blooms profusely with simple flowers. In a cultivated form, it has over 15 varieties.
Flamenco is a large plant 1-1.3 m high with strong stems and large simple flowers. This variety is appreciated for its ease of care and a variety of shade variations.
The group of undersized indoor species is represented by:
- Mermaid is a compact miniature species, the maximum height of which is 15 cm. It blooms with simple flowers of snow-white, blue, light pink or lilac color. Mermaid is a densely branching plant, so it does not need to be pinched during cultivation.
- Little Bell. Just like the previous hybrid, it reaches 15 cm in height. This hybrid blooms with simple, small, funnel-shaped flowers. It is appreciated for the abundance of flowering and the variety of color palette.
- Fidelity is a snow-white variety with numerous small flowers arranged in a spiral on the flower arrow. The height of the flower is no more than 20 cm.
- Florida Pink is an indoor eustoma that blooms profusely with light pink flowers and forms a beautifully aligned bouquet.
The most popular among florists is the large-flowered eustoma. This is a spectacular plant with beautiful, large, skirt-shaped flowers located on long peduncle arrows. This variety looks great in the flowerbed and in the cut.
There are a great many varieties of large-flowered eustoma - these are varieties with purple, lilac, snow-white, light yellow, purple, blue and purple-red flowers. Depending on the type, the flowers are double or non-double. The foliage is gray-green, covered with a light waxy bloom. Depending on the variety, the height of the flowers varies from 15 cm to 1.6 m.
When to sow eustoma seedlings
This amazingly beautiful plant is grown using seeds. Planting seed material for seedlings is carried out at the end of December - at the beginning of January. Planting at such a time makes it possible to get flowering plants already in the middle of summer.
For planting seeds, use disposable plastic cups with a volume of 50 ml. They are filled with potting soil for indoor Saintpaulias. The seeds are laid out on the soil surface, pressing lightly. 3-4 seeds are consumed per container. In order for the seedlings to germinate successfully, they are covered with a film, thus creating greenhouse conditions.
Further care of the plantings until the emergence of seedlings consists in periodic airings, which are arranged at least once every 10 days. At a temperature of 23-25 degrees, seedlings germinate in two weeks.
For the first two months, the sprouts need additional lighting with fluorescent lamps. At the end of winter, young seedlings are transferred to a sunny place.
To protect young specimens from damage by diseases and pests, spraying with a Fundazole solution is carried out (1/2 teaspoon of the substance is dissolved in 0.5 liters of water). To stimulate growth, seedlings are sprayed with Zircon or Epin.
The first picking of seedlings is done at the stage of appearance of one pair of leaves. Plants are transplanted into larger containers, several pieces together. During the picking process, the lower leaves of the plants must be completely submerged in the soil. After planting, the seedlings are watered and covered with foil.
A week later, the seedlings will start to grow and double in size. At the beginning of March, the second picking of seedlings into pots with a diameter of 8-10 cm is performed. The transplant is carried out by the method of transshipment of an earthen coma. A good layer of expanded clay drainage is laid at the bottom of the planting container with drainage holes.
After transplanting, the plants require abundant watering and good lighting without direct sunlight. The next transplant of seedlings grown from seeds is carried out in the open field in the country or in the garden.
You can grow this flower from a bulb. You can buy planting material in any farm that grows this flower.
Growing eustoma outdoors
The ideal time for planting eustoma outdoors is early June. Just by this time, the threat of the last frost has passed. The planting of this exotic in the open field is carried out by the seedling method.
Many growers prefer to use purchased seedlings, since growing their own seedlings is a time-consuming process and is not always justified.
A month after planting, namely by the end of July, the plants successfully take root in new growth conditions. Shortly after that, the eustoma begins a flowering period, which lasts until the very cold weather.
Despite the fact that this is a light-loving plant, direct sunlight is contraindicated for it, which can quickly burn its delicate flowers and foliage.Therefore, the seedlings are planted in a shaded place at a distance of 20 cm from each other.
To achieve re-flowering, at the end of summer, the branches of the eustoma are pruned, leaving small stumps with one pair of leaves. In the beginning of October, you can expect a second flowering of this culture.
Despite the fact that it is an annual plant, some gardeners manage to keep it until next spring. The bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and transferred to a warm room for the winter. To facilitate this procedure, some growers initially plant eustoma in pots, drop it in the garden in the summer, and take it indoors in the fall.
Perennial eustoma: planting and care
Subject to all the rules of agricultural technology, the cultivation of a potted eustoma as a perennial has positive success in home floriculture. This method is especially effective for growing a flower in the regions of the middle zone - in the Urals and Siberia.
Since eustoma is a thermophilic plant and practically does not tolerate cold weather. The ideal place for keeping this exotic at home is a well-lit window sill protected from the scorching sun.
The rules for growing an indoor specimen are not much different from the rules for growing garden species.
To plant this flower in an apartment, you will need a special soil mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions. Seeds are sown in any flower pot or container filled with nutrient medium.
The seed is spread out on the surface of the soil by pressing lightly. After that, the seedlings are watered and moistened with a spray bottle. For quick and successful germination, the crops are covered with transparent polyethylene.
The first shoots will appear in two weeks. For convenience, many growers plant eustoma seeds in peat tablets. Crop care consists in periodic spraying. After the emergence of sprouts, the soil is moistened only in the morning to avoid the appearance of the black leg disease.
As soon as the seedlings release one pair of leaves, they dive into separate containers. The first flowering of a room eustoma can be expected in late January - early February.
Growing this exotic at home is painstaking work, nevertheless, it is worth it. Growing indoors, a tropical flower needs proper care - frequent ventilation, good lighting and a stable temperature regime - within 18-22 degrees.
Care during cultivation
It is recommended to water the room eustoma with warm, settled water and only after the top layer of the earth has dried. This flower does not need spraying. Excessive waterlogging of the aboveground part can provoke the appearance of diseases and pests.
Like most indoor flowers, eustoma responds well to feeding. How to properly feed this flower at home? Top dressing for this culture is applied during the period of active growth and formation of flower buds. For this, liquid complex fertilizers are used in low concentration. 10 ml of the substance is dissolved in one bucket of water.
In addition, the main care for the eustoma at home includes the regular removal of faded buds, yellowed and dried leaves. Subject to these simple conditions, after three months the eustoma will delight with repeated, lush and colorful flowering.
A faded houseplant is cut off, leaving part of the shoots with one pair of internodes. Cropped specimens are transferred to a cool room with a temperature of 12-15 degrees. During this period, the plants enter a dormant period, so they cease to be fed and watered less often. With the arrival of spring, when the growing season begins for flowers, they are transplanted into a new soil and all care procedures are resumed.
Reproduction of this flower, as well as cultivation, is carried out using seeds. Vegetative propagation of eustoma, that is, by cuttings, failed, therefore the seed method was recognized as the most effective.
- This plant is very often affected by pests and diseases. The most inveterate enemies of eustoma are the greenhouse whitefly, aphids and slugs. The fight against harmful insects is carried out using chemicals - Confidor, Aktellik, Aktara or Fitoverm.
- To protect this ornamental flowering plant in the open field, flower growers carry out regular preventive treatments with Fundazol or Ridomil Gold. They protect flowers from fusarium wilting, powdery mildew and gray mold - the most dangerous diseases of eustoma.
Subject to all the rules of planting, care, in optimal conditions of detention, you can grow any of the above-described varieties of eustoma, which will delight with its lush and bright flowering not only in the garden, but also in room conditions.
Eustoma is a beautiful flower with an unusual character. In an open type of ground, it does not need intense moisture and an abundance of light. The flowering culture begins almost immediately after planting on the site, in July, and continues until October. These features have made eustoma one of the most popular flowers for home growing. Experts give recommendations and photo instructions on how to plant a plant correctly, organize its care, carry out reproduction and prevent diseases.
Description and characteristics of eustoma
This flower is also called the Irish rose, although it is native to the dry steppes of Central America. In Europe, eustoma has been grown for a long time, not only in the open field, but also in a room format, in pots. The large-flowered Roussel variety has the most striking decorative properties. Hybrid series Echo, Kyoto, Cinderella, Mermaid are also in demand. Eustoma characteristics:
- height - about 60-90 cm, an adult plant looks like a bush
- flower size - on average 7-8 cm in diameter, maximum - up to 15 cm
- color - all shades of blue, white, pink and yellow
- flowers can be double or non-double
- leaves are gray with a characteristic waxy coating.
Attention! On one bush, eustoma can dissolve up to 35 buds at a time. Each of them looks like a poppy in full bloom or a half-opened rose.
The versatility of eustoma is that undersized varieties look attractive in pots or as border plants. Tall flowers are grown for cutting. In addition to attractiveness, they are distinguished by high vitality rates in a vase. If the flowers are not cut, the eustoma will bloom for about 3 months, gradually releasing new buds to replace the faded ones.
Attention! Under certain conditions of care, the eustoma will be a two- or three-year-old plant.
Features of planting eustoma in the open field
The optimal time for planting seedlings of plants on the site is the first days of July. In the middle of summer, young specimens will reach maximum readiness for rooting in street soil and will bloom almost immediately.
For this to happen, consider the following when landing:
- Choose a place for the eustoma without exposure to midday sunlight - shade or partial shade.
- Do not plant the flower near objects that will reflect the rays of the sun on it.
- The interval between shoots is from 20 cm.
- The culture does not like high humidity and abundant watering. Do not plant it under the edge of a roof canopy or gutter to prevent water from stagnating in the ground when it rains.
- The garden soil at the planting site must have good drainage and a neutral reaction. Wood ash added directly to the holes will help to cope with increased acidity.
- Apply store-bought flower fertilizer or nitrophosphate to the seedling holes.
How to properly care for eustoma
In caring for an ornamental plant, it is important to maintain the level of soil drainage by regularly loosening and removing weeds. It is not necessary to water the eustoma with a large amount of water: small, but regular doses are enough. Drip irrigation is ideal for this flower. After watering, be sure to cover the root zone with mulch. If you go through with the volume of water, the root of the plant will surely be affected by the fungus. If the soil is overdried, the eustoma will shed its buds.
Attention! Watering is carried out strictly on the plant.
Other nuances of proper flower care:
- Up to twice a month, he needs a light feeding with complex fertilizers.
- The stems of tall varieties are not strong enough to hold a ripe bud. Tie them to a support.
- To prolong flowering, check and remove faded or tainted buds.
Blooming eustoma may need support
The flower dies even with minimal frost. To preserve the plant for next season, transplant it into a container filled with garden soil in October. Further, two ways are possible:
- Move the container to the room. Flowering may continue, although not as intensely as in summer.
- Trim the peduncles so that only a couple of internodes remain on them. Place the container in a bright room with low humidity at a temperature of about + 10 ° C. Water while keeping the soil slightly moist. Increase the dose of water in February.
In early summer, the flower can be returned to an area under the open sky. Be prepared for the fact that when moving from the street to a warm room, the plant may begin to wither. Don't be alarmed, this is an adaptation. To help the flower overcome stress, keep watering to a minimum.
Attention! In the second season, eustoma blooms less.
Features of growing eustoma in Siberia
To get eustoma flowers in the open field in the Siberian climate, you need to sow them for seedlings in the fall. The seedling technology does not differ from the usual one. However, growing seedlings in winter requires additional lighting. Seedlings dive after the second leaf grows.
Advice. Use small pots that can hold 3 sprouts. Cover the containers with foil as well.
Increase watering for the adaptation period. Then sprinkle a couple of lower leaves with soil. In March, the seedlings require re-transplanting into wider pots with drainage. It is better to move the root by rolling. Wait for the warmth outside and plant the flowers outdoors.
Diseases and pests of eustoma
A tropical flower attracts little pests, but when neglected it can be infected with whitefly, thrips, slugs or spider mites. Eustoma is sensitive to some pathogens and fungal infections. The flower can be struck by fusarium, false gray rot, powdery mildew, late blight, root rot, tobacco mosaic. Most of them appear when waterlogged, if water stagnation at the root is allowed. For example, in a rainy summer. Preventive measures:
- multiple spraying with phytosporin or foundationol in case of negative factors
- protection of seedlings from water ingress.
Eustoma in landscape design
Reproduction of eustoma at home
Eustoma seeds, like ready-made seedlings, can be bought at the store. Flower mix is also available for sale. Purchase a special medium for Saintpaulias. You can cook it with your own hands by mixing:
- 1/3 garden soil
- 1/3 coarse sand
- 1/3 humus
- a small proportion of lime.
Start work in February-March. Prepare small containers and fill them with slightly moistened soil. Make a greenhouse for the seeds of film or glass. The optimum temperature for good development of seedlings is + 22 ... 25 ° С during the day and about + 20 ° С at night. Place the seeds on the ground, about 15 cm apart.
Advice. In warm regions, where the soil warms up earlier, seeds can be sown directly into the soil on the site. The technology is the same.
Expect the first shoots after 1.5-2 weeks. Air them once a week. After the seedling has a third leaf, it can be dived. This occurs approximately 6–8 weeks after the seedlings hatch. Work very carefully, as the root of the young plant is easily damaged.
Eustoma will bloom only 90–120 days after germination. If the flower shoots are cut at the end of summer, then after about a month you can wait for re-flowering.
Growing eustoma from seeds: video
Before planting tomatoes for seedlings, seeds should be discarded. First, remove all broken, small and seemingly empty seeds. The remaining planting material is poured with a saline solution prepared from one liter of water and 30-40 g of salt for 10 minutes. All emerged specimens are removed, the drowned are selected and washed with clean water.
After rejection, disinfection is carried out. To do this, they are dipped in a 1% pale pink solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes. After completing the disinfection procedure, it is necessary to rinse the planting material under running water.
For disinfection, a 0.5% soda solution or aloe juice mixed with water in a 1: 1 ratio is also used. In such solutions, seeds are soaked for a day.
Planting tomato seeds for seedlings is most often done after soaking, but you can plant them dry. When using the first method, it is easier to grow seeds, the speed of their germination is noticeably increased. But if the seeds of a certain variety cannot germinate on their own without preliminary soaking, then their resistance and yield will be low.
Some recommend warming them in hot water for two hours to increase germination. Tempering allows increasing the resistance of future tomato seedlings to temperature extremes. Tomato seeds swollen as a result of soaking are recovered in the refrigerator for a day.
Before planting, agronomists advise placing tomato seeds in a fertilizer solution for 12-24 hours. After that, they are dried. The solution is made by adding 1 teaspoon of one of the selected fertilizers to 1 liter of water:
- wood ash
- "A drop"
- Agricola-Vegeta solution
- drug "Effekton".
Also, the solution is made from 2 g of "Bud" or 1 ml of "Epin".
Which rosemary varieties are suitable for outdoor cultivation?
There are much fewer Russian varieties of rosemary than foreign ones. But most of the latter are not suitable for growing in open ground in most of the territory of the Russian Federation, since they are characterized by low cold resistance. In general, not every gardener can visually determine that there is rosemary of different varieties in front of him. Differences in size, shape, shade of leaves are very insignificant. The most significant difference is the color of the petals. But the flowering of the bush when grown outdoors in Russia is short-lived.
The bush is distinguished by very powerful roots that extend into the soil 3-4 m deep. When grown in open ground in Russia, its maximum height is 1.2-1.5 m. Under optimal conditions, the shoots stretch up to 2 m. Frost resistance of Corsican Blue is up to -10 ºС.
Olive leaves with a grayish undertone. The wrong side with a slight "edge". Paniculate inflorescences, flowers of different shades of blue. The buds open in early May for about three weeks.
Demonstrates practically "record" cold resistance for a foreign rosemary variety (up to - 17 ºС). Leaves of an unusual color, with a bluish-gray tint. The flowers are bright purple. The height of the plant when grown outdoors in Russia is a maximum of 0.7-0.8 m.
In Crimea and other regions with a similar climate, growing it outdoors is practically effortless. There it is, in fact, "weed". The height of the bush is no more than 1 m, the leaves are grayish-green, with an original lavender scent. The Krymsky variety stands out for its unusually early flowering, the buds open in February-March.
A compact bush of almost regular spherical shape, with a diameter of about 0.8 m. The leaves are longer and thinner compared to other varieties, more like needles. Their bright green hue changes to grayish blue during the season.But this "transformation" occurs only when grown outdoors. When cultivated at home, the bush remains "evergreen".
The variety is especially demanding for lighting. He does not tolerate places where air stagnates for a long time, and cold drafts. Frost resistance - up to - 20 ºС.
It is a dwarf (up to 0.4 m), densely leafy bush. The leaves are deep green in color, are distinguished by a high content of essential oils. Cold resistance - up to - 15-20 ºС.
The variety is characterized by a fast pace of development. Greens from a bush can be cut off two months after planting in open ground. In Russia, it is often practiced as an annual.
A comparatively rare variety on personal plots. The height of the bush when planted in open ground varies between 0.5-1 m. It depends on the growing conditions. The leaves are dark green. Frost resistance - up to - 10 ºС.
Not only spicy and medicinal, but also an ornamental plant. Its cultivation is often practiced in hanging pots, on alpine slides, rockeries. Shoots are thin, creeping, "curly", up to 1 m long.
Shrub 0.8-1 m high, densely leafy. The leaf plates are shiny, with curved edges. The variety is undemanding to the quality of the substrate, it tolerates drought well. If you create optimal conditions for it when growing in open ground, the bush blooms twice - in March-April and in September. Cold resistance - up to - 10-12 ºС.
The shade of biryusa rosemary flowers varies from pale blue to bright lilac, depending on growing conditions in the open field.
Pepper is a moisture-loving plant, but at the same time, it does not tolerate excess moisture, therefore, if you are determined for the result, be sure to water often, but not too abundantly, so as to moisturize, not flood. For peppers, drip irrigation is the best option, which is justified for this plant.
Loosening the soil is truly a very important moment in the growth period of any plant, and pepper is no exception. A stable and regular flow of fresh air only provides loosening, so this procedure cannot be neglected. But, remember, everything that is a lot is not healthy! The root system of the pepper is located superficially, therefore, with intensive loosening, you organize the air flow, but at the same time damage the root, which ultimately will lead to the death of the plant. It is necessary to loosen the earth, especially twice a week, but without going too deep. The best alternative would be mulching, which will protect the plant from weeds, store moisture, and in this case, loosening will become irrelevant.