Since 1853, kerosene has been used for household and street lighting, and in Soviet times this oil product was successfully used even to fight lice. Modern amateur gardeners know how useful aviation fuel can be at their summer cottage.
Moles spoil not only the harvest, but also the nerves of gardeners. Mice run through the underground tunnels dug by these mammals.
Moles destroy the root system of plants, and earthen mounds at the beginning and at the end of the passages deprive alpine slides and lawns of a beautiful, well-groomed appearance. To get rid of this misfortune, the summer resident will need a can of kerosene, a basin, rags, a long stick, a piece of film and any heavy object.
Soak old rags in the fuel, wrap it around a stick and push it into the wormhole. Cover the exit from above with plastic wrap and a heavy stone. Complete all the moves in this way.
The kerosene fumes will fill the holes and prevent the animals from getting out.
Weeding the beds by hand is a tedious and thankless task. Kerosene will help speed up the process of getting rid of unwanted vegetation.
Not all weeds are able to cope with this oil product, but most do.
To prepare the herbicide, a glass of kerosene is diluted in 5 liters of water. The solution is poured over the beds in dry warm weather before the first shoots appear. After 2 weeks, the treatment is repeated.
Increasing the yield of carrots
Spraying carrot beds with a soap-kerosene solution will allow you to get rid of not only weeds, but also pests, so root crops will be born wonderfully.
To prepare this miracle remedy, it is necessary to dilute 5 grams of laundry soap in a liter of boiling water, then cool the liquid to 60 degrees and pour in 2 liters of kerosene, stirring constantly.
The resulting composition is diluted with 2-3 liters of warm water, mixed again and abundantly sprayed on the carrot beds 3-4 times per season with interruptions of at least 3 weeks.
Experienced gardeners treat not only carrot beds with kerosene, but also aisles in potato fields before planting. This helps to get rid of the bear and the Colorado potato beetle.
Pests that have already bred and threaten to destroy the entire crop are harvested by hand. Kerosene also helps in this matter. The refined product is poured into a bucket and the caught beetles are thrown there. This will prevent harmful insects from scattering.
Garden tree processing
In early spring, fruit and berry crops are sprayed with the above-described soap-kerosene emulsion or a mixture of kerosene and water.
Only 500 ml of fuel dissolved in a bucket of water can rid a garden tree of any pests and diseases.
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In addition to the vole mouse, which leaves passages in the ground and gnaws large cavities in root crops, various insects can harm carrots: carrot fly larvae, naked slugs, wireworm, bear, winter scoop, etc.
If you find any damage to the carrots, you need to immediately take measures to eliminate the pest, otherwise there is a risk of being left without a crop. Consider who eats carrots on and under the ground.
In the ground
Under the ground, such pests are dangerous for root crops:
- carrot fly - the second generation of larvae gnaws roots and tops, especially active from mid-July to late August
- root-knot nematode - prolific roundworms, it is almost impossible to completely destroy on the site
- field mice - rodents make an underground passage to the garden bed and completely destroy the crop in 1-2 weeks
- bear - large insects 3-5 cm in length, adults and larvae gnaw through roots and stems
- mole rat - the rodent digs deep holes, immediately eats the tops, and stores the roots for the winter
- wireworm - damages root crops, feeds on carrot juices, makes it vulnerable to disease.
On the garden top
From above the garden bed, carrots are actively eaten by pests:
- carrot flap - small insects sucking juice from leaf stalks
- winter scoop - caterpillars gnaw at the base of the leaves, which leads to the death of plants
- garden moth - the larvae feed on carrot tops, destroying plants.
Landscaping of the garden in the country and its photo
Now some garden owners are not inspired by the idea of a vegetable garden, but there are also gardening fanatics, while the majority of land owners combine the cultivation of ornamental and edible plants. How nice it is to harvest your own young potato crop while it is out of the market or too expensive. If we compare the taste and appearance of cucumbers that have just been picked from the garden with those bought on the market, then the difference is also obvious.
On the other hand, it has long been known that mature fruit trees and fruit shrubs - apple and pear, cherry and plum, irga, gooseberry, red and white currant - are unusually decorative. More and more gardeners are planting them not only in order to be able to pick a berry from a currant or gooseberry bush grown with their own hands and, perhaps, make preparations for the winter, but also for beauty.
The landscape design of the garden in the photo may not look very practical, since most summer residents are accustomed to a different order in the beds.
Properly grown vegetables are attractive and elegant. Well-groomed beds are pleasing to the eye.
Look at the design of the garden in the country in the photo and appreciate the attractiveness of the planned beds:
Positive aspects of northern conditions
There are also pluses. There are few of them, but the more valuable they are.
- From March to September, the length of daylight hours in the north is much longer than in lower latitudes. Long-term insolation during the day is a factor that compensates for the lack of warm days. The total illumination increases during the growing season.
- Fewer pests. Northerners, at least those living at the latitude of Arkhangelsk and above, do not know what the Colorado potato beetle is. This saves many of the problems for potato growers.
- And, perhaps, the most important plus of northern agriculture: a sufficient amount of precipitation and humidity. A rare summer is dry, and even then the moisture reserve in the soil after the melting of heavy snows is enough for a long time. In ordinary years, the problem with irrigation does not arise, only greenhouse crops are subject to irrigation, which, with sufficient precipitation, does not cause problems - the containers are always filled with rainwater.
Sawdust for the garden: benefits and harms, safe methods of use
Let's figure out how to use sawdust correctly so that they will surely be beneficial. Sawdust is really good as a fertilizer for the garden and vegetable garden, but there are some nuances. You should not wait for a rich harvest if they were simply thoughtlessly scattered along the garden bed until a stable microbial community has been created.
1st method: sawdust as compost
This is the way it is, and everyone has been scared for a long time not to use fresh sawdust for any crops. When decomposing, they will consume the nitrogen supply available in the soil, while expelling toxic substances. It would be much more rational to make compost from sawdust.
To do this, first the bottom layer of grass or hay is laid out in the compost container, and then sawdust is tamped in layers of 10-15 cm.Each layer is perceptibly filled with a solution of water with urea, made in proportions of 200 grams of this substance per bucket of water.
Of course, mineral water can be replaced with weed infusion (there are more nettles and dandelions there, yes with roots) or bird droppings can be diluted. It is good to layer each layer of 10-15 cm with earth in order to populate the compost with useful microbes.
When the whole pile is ready, it should be covered with plastic or any material that does not dry out. After two weeks, the pile must be poured with a shovel (do a transshipment). After a two-month period, the sawdust will completely darken and the safe organic fertilizer for the garden is ready.
Method 2: nitrogen-enriched sawdust - quick mix for the lazy
There is not always time and patience to make a complete compost fertilizer. Not a problem. Plants will get an excellent feed from untreated wood sawdust mixed with nitrogen fertilizer, prepared by any of the following methods:
- 20 grams of carbamide per kilo of wood chips
- 0.5 liters of poultry manure solution per bucket of water
- 3 liters of weed infusion for 7 liters of water.
You can mix dry sawdust with urea in advance, or first sprinkle them on an empty garden bed and spill it with a solution - no difference. After a while, the ground covered with sawdust can be cultivated as usual. Enriched sawdust is great to use when laying high beds - they give looseness to the soil, improve moisture holding capacity.
If you have a little sawdust, you can enrich them with home remedies - rinse the bowl from under the preparation of the jellied pie dough (another name is "charlotte") and soak the sawdust. The washout from the dough contains everything you need - egg leftovers, flour, sugar. Soil biota will definitely be delighted with such a freebie. By the way, it is not a sin to sprinkle the soil in pots of home flowers with such sawdust - evaporation from the soil surface will decrease, and the surges in transpiration will be smoothed out.
3rd method: enrichment of fresh sawdust with EM crops
Wood sawdust as fertilizer for the garden can be enriched with EM-kami. It doesn't matter - purchased or homemade. We also cook like OFEM in this video of the charming Valeria Zashchitina:
4th method: a mixture of fresh sawdust with compost or manure
Potatoes, tomatoes and carrots can be fertilized with sawdust mixed with organic fertilizers. In this case, it is better to shower the ground with them in autumn.
As for cucumbers, cabbage, melons, they should be fertilized in this way, preferably in the spring, mixing with animal manure and ash.
5th method: mulching the soil with sawdust
As already mentioned, due to the many publications, novice summer residents doubt whether it is possible to mulch with fresh sawdust. It seems to us that such articles are incomplete and frighten beginners in vain. Sawdust is a wonderful natural material, and it is simply a sin to refuse such cheap organic matter. By the way, such a wonderful fertilizer as lingohumate is obtained from wood waste. Have you tried it? Try at least on seedlings.
As mulch, sawdust will remarkably protect the soil from adverse weather conditions and drying out, because they perfectly retain moisture. In addition, many rooted weeds will not be able to break through layers.
After a year, the sawdust will rot without a trace, nourishing the soil with nutrients during this process, which will ensure a good harvest. In the next season, it is advisable to take care of the plants by soaking the sawdust mulch with aerated compost tea or weed solution.
So that there is no trouble
And, as usual, having considered all the advantages, one must nevertheless remind about the harm of sawdust to the soil. There are not so many cons. For example, there is no need to sprinkle the soil around the plants with sawdust of unknown origin. Varnishes, glue, carcinogens and other chemicals they contain can kill crops or spoil the expected harvest. If a mistake has already been made, all the beds should be generously watered with rotted humus. It will gradually cleanse the soil of unwanted substances.
The second warning is also quite simple - softwood sawdust contains organic resins, and they acidify the soil. It is advisable to use them to mulch the soil near rhododendrons, blueberries and heathers. Or add deoxidizers - dolomite flour, ground eggshells and / or wood ash.
Third, sawdust of poplar, oak, walnut is known to be allelopathic. That is, their excretion inhibits the growth of many cultivated plants. But do not throw away such organic matter! It is better to accumulate sawdust, shavings and foliage of these tree species somewhere separately (bag, box, etc.), spill them with EMC or urea and calmly use it after a year or two.
By this time, natural colins will disappear, waste will be saturated with natural organic acids, saprophytes will develop in it, and the whole armada of soil biota will pounce on these sawdust when you distribute it in the garden and vegetable garden.
These are the ways to use sawdust in the garden and vegetable garden. So do not be alarmed by incomplete publications, and do not try to collect and export sawdust somewhere in the country, and even more so to burn it - this is blasphemy! We hope that the excessive emotionality of the article did not prevent you from figuring out how you can use sawdust for the garden - the benefits and harms of their use in the country have become obvious.
Previously, she also did not want to use sawdust in the garden in any case - they scared that a wireworm would start. And the soil will become acidic to the point that the roots begin to burn. But for many years I have been watching Kuznetsov's nursery - grace and nothing else, and my fears were dispelled. But I don’t sprinkle it fresh, I let it rest for a year.
Thank you for your feedback, Elena. It also seems to me that one should not be afraid of sawdust, but thoughtless waste of organic matter - to burn or take out such waste is simply waste
There is a small garden (apple, cherry, 2 sweet cherries, late autumn babies of plum, pear and rodrdendron), roses, conifers, berry bushes and ornamental shrubs. There is no experience. There is last year's horror from all the pests in the creepy co-vats (especially the whitefly, which covered the ENTIRE plot of 10 acres, the entire surface of the soil and all plants). There is a desire to do without chemistry. Hope to become friends with your site and get useful tips and advice. I am ready to share my experience and the necessary information).
Ellina, hello. I can imagine your horror at the sight of a horde of whitefly. Try sprinkling with Bars shampoo or flea spray (check out the vetharmacy).
Well, as for the exchange of experience - you are always welcome, we are very glad to your proposal.
Thank you, now I know where to put the sawdust left after the construction
Good day! We have a lot of birch sawdust from a ferret, can we use it for a vegetable garden? The site has just been purchased, not yet developed, the soil is heavy, it needs to be loosened.
Oh, Irina, of course you can. By the way, we also use sawdust for the latrine in the dog enclosure - they absorb the smell perfectly. It is better to let the birch sawdust rest a little. Let's say until the fall. And in the fall, distribute them in the beds
Hello ! I'm a beginner, the dacha appeared only in the summer. There were no landings at all, everything started from scratch. In the fall, she planted a lot of garden trees, shrubs, flowers. On the advice of a neighbor, she insulated all the planted plants first with peat and sawdust on top. I sent my husband specifically to the sawmill. Now it turned out that fresh sawdust in the garden is harmful, that they must be poured initially with a solution of urea. And what to do in my case in the spring, when I open the seedlings. Remove the layer or spill with what?
Hello. So what kind of sawdust can you use fresh? From your article, I understood that coniferous, oak, birch and poplar trees should be allowed to rest. Then what trees can you use right away?
One of the most sensible articles on the Internet. As someone who has been growing vegetables on the balcony for five years in sawdust soil, it is strange to see that most are still in the Stone Age. So in order. "Jumping" with purchased soil (it is expensive and a lot to run) or the use of garden land (eternal overflow and it is not clear what the plants lack + any infection) did not suit my particular balcony gardening. About 30 containers of 5-8 liters each are placed on 12 running meters of the log.It is not difficult to calculate how much soil you need and, at least, bring in purchased soil on your hands, which is for the money, which is problematic when walking to the store. I found a way out simple, thanks to my cats, woody cat litters turned out to be optimal for my purposes. Further, more, I began to use in addition lumpy filler (diatomite) pieces of porous gray silicate the size of peas. The mixture is simple: 5-7 parts of swollen wet sawdust (500 ml of pressed wood filler pour 2-3 liters of water and let it swell completely), 0.5 parts of lumpy dry filler, 1 part of purchased peat soil. For 10 liters of a mixture of 2 tbsp of ground eggshells and 1 tbsp. complex fertilizer (without a slide) with a composition not worse than 10/10/10. Mix everything well and the soil is ready. You can plant. Yes, you heard right, no more dances with tambourines are needed. You can plant both seedlings and ready-made plants for growth. I use 5-8 liter water containers for one large plant (cucumber, tomato, pepper, etc.). If you live in the middle lane, then the harvest will be only in the south-west, south and south-in the windows. There is an exception - basil, it grows all year round and only the northern window will require additional lighting in winter. Concerning acidification. Sawdust in the filler - in 99% of conifers, but my careful measurements of the dynamics of soil acidity revealed in all samples both old plantings (5 years on sawdust) and new ones an interesting thing: sawdust keeps pH as a good buffer in a very narrow range of 6.0-6 , 4 units.
If you prefer to weed the beds without gloves, then you have probably tried unsuccessfully to wash your hands of garden dirt with regular soap more than once. Put some baking soda on your hands, soaked with water and lightly soaped, and rub them together for two minutes. The baking soda will penetrate the epidermis and dissolve the dirt.
Also, soda cleans the heels well, so those who like to walk barefoot in the summer should not give up their habit.