How I managed to grow Stevia, a natural sugar substitute

How I managed to grow Stevia, a natural sugar substitute

I would like to share with you the secret of growing a wonderful plant called stevia. In our country, it is undeservedly deprived of attention, although it is a storehouse of vitamins. But the most important property is that it is many times sweeter than sugar, and, just imagine, not a single side effect.

Translated from the Mayan language means honey. One very beautiful legend is connected with it. Once upon a time among the Mayan tribes lived a girl named Stevia. She loved her native land so much that she would not regret her life for her. Then the generous gods, seeing her devotion and love, gave her this magical herb.

Stevia came to Europe from South America. The conquistadors-conquerors drew attention to the unusual green leaves that the Indians added to their mate tea. Having tasted it, the Spaniards realized that to sweeten even a large cup, just a couple of leaves are enough.

Herbaceous perennial plant that grows up to a meter. The flowers are white and small, with a developed root system. The planting period lasts about 2-2.5 months, and you can harvest in four months.

Feels great at home. Through simple manipulations, I managed to get a rich harvest and make myself stocks of this super-useful plant. It can be grown on your windowsill, and for the summer, for greater productivity, transferred to open ground.

Stevia is a southerner, which means it is thermophilic and will not grow in a cold environment. And if it receives more heat and light, it becomes sweeter. The ideal conditions for her are where there is no wind or drafts, the ambient temperature ranges from 20-30 degrees. In nature, it reproduces both by seeds and cuttings, and even by dividing the bush. In winter, it will die in the open field, so it is used either as an annual plant, or transferred to pots home. Thus, it will be possible to get fresh sweet leaves all year round.

So, how did I manage to grow stevia from seeds at home and get a rich harvest at the same time. I share with you all the tricks.

It is best to cook seedlings in late March - early April. The seeds are small so you need to be careful with them. We moisturize the prepared, well-loosened soil (you can use any, most importantly, without peat and lime). We put each seed at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other. There is no need to deepen them. From my own experience, I will say that the shoots will not sprout. Just put them on the ground and that's it.

After that, we irrigate the soil again, preferably from a spray bottle. We do this carefully so as not to wash off the seeds. And then we make a greenhouse for them - we cover it with what we have: glass jars, lids for special seedling boxes and everything that you usually use can be used. Sowing is over.

We put in a warm place, not lower than 25 ° С and away from direct sunlight.

After seven days, you can already start enjoying the first shoots. We are waiting for the moment when the main number of sprouts will rise, remove the films, cans, lids and transfer the seedlings to the brightest and warmest place. Let me remind you that you should definitely make sure that our stevia does not suffer from drafts, they are detrimental to the sprouts! We also monitor the temperature, which should not be lower than 15 ° C.

When the seedlings grow up to five centimeters, and they have two or more leaves, they can be safely planted in separate cups or pots. Just do not forget to drain there and sprinkle it with a little sand before laying the soil. The root system is not very deep, but branched, so low pots will be good for it, and there must be a hole at the bottom. Seedlings should be transplanted carefully, with a small lump of earth, and then the seedlings should be regularly moistened and fed in the form of a complex mineral fertilizer at least once a week.

After 2-2.5 months, after the sprouts noticeably grow and get stronger, they can be transplanted into open ground for fresh air when the threat of frost has passed. I put it under a temporary shelter, in my case it was empty five-liter water bottles. I waited a week for the shoots to take root, and removed the shelter. Also, the seedlings can be transferred to the greenhouse directly in the pots.

Cutting stevia is easy. For this, it is better to choose young, strong shoots. We break off the process at the base. We plant it in the same way as I described above - we deepen it to the first leaves in moistened soil, compact it a little and water it with water. Again, don't forget to keep an eye on watering, humidity, and lighting. We look and check that the stevia is not seized by aphids or whiteflies. If the latter appears, it means that it is damp and humid around.

You can tear off any leaves in tea, one mug is enough for one. It is best to do this in the morning, as this is the time when they have the highest level of sweetness. You can add it all year round. Brew like regular tea. It turns out a delicious, sweet and most importantly healthy drink.

If you, like me, will dry the leaves for the winter, then it is better to collect them in the middle of summer, by cutting off the plant in half. I dry it in a vegetable stand at a temperature of 65 degrees - if you dry it, then the stevia will taste bitter. It can also be hung in bunches for natural drying. It does not require any special storage conditions, the main thing is that it is dry.

  • Print

Rate the article:

(1 vote, average: 5 out of 5)

Share with your friends!

Stevia. Varieties and origins. Growing and caring for stevia

Stevia. Varieties and origins. Growing and caring for stevia

Today we'll talk about stevia... Find out what kind of plant it is. Let's get acquainted with stevia varieties and with features cultivation and leaving.

Stevia Is a rather unusual herb. It has long leaves and is also a perennial shrub. Flowers are white or yellow, rather small. The leaves are similar to mint, but longer and narrower.

There are many stories about the beneficial properties of this plant, and it is not surprising, because they are all pure truth. Anyone who is used to being treated with folk methods must necessarily have such a herbaceous plant. Today we will find outhow to grow I have such a beauty as stevia varieties there are also where she came to us.

The origin of stevia

The homeland of this plant is the mountains of Paraguay. Locals have used stevia instead of sugar since time immemorial to sweeten their tea or any other beverage. But the name stevia acquired only in 1918.

In 1930, the plant was first domesticated and stevia began to be grown on an industrial scale. But the residents of Paraguay were in no hurry to share the secret cheap sweetener and the local authorities strictly monitored so that the stevia did not leave the country.

But already in 1971, the plant nevertheless left the warm embrace of Paraguay and went to conquer Japan, where it immediately began to be sold as a sugar substitute.

Stevia moved to neighboring Ukraine already in 1985, but at the moment the largest supplier of stevia in the CIS is Crimea.

Stevia varieties

Stevia, like any other popular plant, has several varieties that differ from each other in some taste or resistance to disease and frost. Unfortunately, we only sell two varieties of stevia. But do not be upset, believe me, these varieties will not disappoint you.

Stevia variety Detskoselskaya

This variety was bred by selection and crossing of the strongest plants of this species. It is a small bush up to a meter high and up to 30 centimeters in diameter. The leaf is green with slight pubescence. The sheet is up to 2 centimeters wide. Blooms with pale beige flowers. The yield is quite high, up to half a kilo per square meter.

Dulcinea stevia variety

Also obtained by selection of the strongest plants. This stevia grows up to 110 centimeters high and up to 45 centimeters in diameter. The leaf is narrow, up to 1 centimeter in diameter. Leaves are densely covered with white dense fluff. It blooms with white flowers. From one square meter, you can collect up to a kilogram of raw materials.

Planting stevia

And so, now we will figure out how to plant this wonderful plant!

Stevia roots are superficial, so it requires attention to the soil. There should be no stones or remnants of weed roots in it, otherwise the roots will not be able to grow normally. Stevia also likes soil with a lot of compost.

When the soil is selected, you can grow seedlings from seeds for the garden. This is not difficult to do. When you bought the seeds of the variety that you liked, you need to prepare a pot in which germination will take place.

Now you need to make a small indentation in the soil where you put 2-3 seeds of the plant. After that, the seeds need to be filled up, but so that the soil layer above them does not exceed half a centimeter, then it is necessary to spray the soil with a spray bottle.

After that, the pot is tightly covered with foil and placed in the sun. The temperature around the pot should be at least 25 degrees Celsius. If you succeed, the seeds will turn into small sprouts in a week or two. After you notice this, the film can be safely removed.

Then the stevia will get stronger and separate leaves will become visible. At this stage, the weakest shoots are removed and only the strongest ones are left behind. In this case, stevia must be gently watered, the soil must be moist, not soggy.

After the plant reaches a height of 13-14 centimeters, 4 centimeters must be cut off from the main shoot to get a branched plant. And that's all, you can transplant it into open ground or leave it in a pot.

If you decide to transplant stevia into open ground, then it is worth knowing some of the features... It will be necessary to choose a place that is sunny, because this plant is very partial to pleasant sunshine. Moreover, this is also a single plant, it cannot be planted close to the rest, otherwise it will die. It's all about the surface roots, so arrange for her a secluded place five meters from other garden plants.

And so we can start landing. The hole should be prepared in advance, while the plants should be at a distance of 30 centimeters from each other. The stevia should be carefully removed with an earthy clod so as not to damage the roots. After that, it can be planted in a hole and sprinkled with earth thoroughly, tamping it. Further, the soil is sprinkled on top with a good layer of mulch to avoid drying out of the roots in the future. And now you can water the plant, but only with the help of a spray bottle.

Stevia care

Of course, Stevia loves the sun, but not the rays that are scorching it. Therefore, in a particularly hot period, it is advisable to make a small canopy of gauze over it, which will slightly soften the effect of the sun.

About two weeks after planting, the stevia will need to be fed with general fertilizer for ordinary flowers.

Watering should be moderate, the soil should not dry out too much, but at the same time it should not be overly moistened, because this can destroy the plant.

In addition, weeds should not be allowed to linger around the stevia for a long time.

Harvesting stevia

Still, stevia is grown for a reason, but because of its sweetening properties. In the summer, when it is in a period of active growth, you can add fresh leaves to tea, but sometimes you want something sweet in winter. In this case, it will be necessary to dry the leaves for the winter. This is done very simply. To do this, just collect all the leaves and dry them in the sun.

In addition, stevia, both dried and fresh, is added during conservation to various compotes and is used in the preparation of tea and coffee.

And so, today we met with such a wonderful plant as stevia, which is used as a natural sweetener, which is also very useful.

The origin of stevia

The homeland of this plant is the mountains of Paraguay. Locals have used stevia instead of sugar since time immemorial to sweeten their tea or any other beverage. But the name stevia acquired only in 1918.

In 1930, the plant was first domesticated and stevia began to be grown on an industrial scale. But the residents of Paraguay were in no hurry to share the secret cheap sweetener and the local authorities strictly monitored so that the stevia did not leave the country.

But already in 1971, the plant nevertheless left the warm embrace of Paraguay and went to conquer Japan, where it immediately began to be sold as a sugar substitute.

Stevia moved to neighboring Ukraine already in 1985, but at the moment the largest supplier of stevia in the CIS is Crimea.

Physostegia. Growing and caring for physical fitness

Physostegia. Growing and caring for physical fitness

Physostegia not a very popular plant in our areas, but all because not everyone knows about this wonderful flower.

Those who tried to plant at home Physostegia can no longer imagine their site without this beauty. In addition growing Physostegy does not require special work, and in leaving this beautiful flower is not whimsical.

Translated from Greek Physostegia means bubble. Most likely, these flowers got this name because of the shape of the flowers, they really look like bubbles attached to the trunk. Let's get to know this wonderful plant as closely as possible.

Introduction to Physostegy

Let's start with the fact that Physostegia is a perennial plant, you only have to work hard once to plant it, and then it will delight you every year with its flowering for many years. It does not grow alone, one plant will eventually grow into a chic thick carpet of flowers.

Physostegia is not a small plant, usually it grows from 1 to 1.2 meters in height, and if she really likes the conditions in which it grows, then it can grow up to 1.5 meters.

The root system of these flowers is also quite large, its roots have many branches and grow very widely. The roots are very strong and not prone to damage.

The foliage of this plant is oblong, jagged at the edges, and the inside is very smooth and glossy. The color of the leaves is dark green.

The flowers have a two-lipped shape, at the base they are swollen and look like bubbles. The colors of Physostegia are not very diverse, the flowers are white, pink, purple or lilac. But with the duration of flowering, it pleases, flowering begins in July, the end of flowering begins in September. Flowers are very attractive to insect pollinators.

There are not many varieties of this plant, there are up to 12 of them, most of which are wild-growing.

Growing Physostegy from seeds

If you want to start growing Physostegia, and there are no acquaintances from whom you can take a couple of plants for divorce, then you will have to buy seeds and grow a plant from seeds.

Sowing Fiostegia Seeds

Growing begins with sowing seeds, for this try to get seeds from a good store. Make sure that you are not sold a fake, so that you do not waste your time and money.

Planting seeds should be done in the middle or end of March.

For germination, it will be necessary to create a greenhouse effect, for this you need to take a deep container for planting. Buy a special soil for planting seedlings, in such soil the germination of seeds will double, you can also take ordinary soil from your site, but make sure that there are no worms in it that will destroy your seeds. Level the soil in the container, pour water over it.Then sprinkle the seeds on the soil and cover them with a small layer of earth, no more than 1 cm. Water the soil again with water, but only the flow of water should be diffused so that the seeds do not wash out to the surface.

Then take glass or transparency and cover the container. Place the container in a bright place, but do not place it in direct sunlight. Keep the soil constantly moist.

When the sprouts appear at least 1 cm, remove the glass or film and move it closer to the sun, if you have a greenhouse in which you plant seedlings, you can send Fizostegia seedlings there.

Seedling care Physostegy

Seedlings must be watered regularly, preventing the soil from drying out in containers. It is also necessary to very carefully loosen the soil at least 2-3 times a week.

Before planting seedlings, it must be hardened. Start taking it outside 2 weeks before planting. Start with 30 minutes outdoors, gradually increase the walking time of your seedlings until 2 weeks before being outdoors around the clock. This will allow the plants to take root well.

Planting seedlings of Physostegy

In order for the seedlings to take root well, it is necessary to follow some rules for planting it in open ground.

Place for planting Physostegy

Physostegia is not particularly whimsical to the place for its landing. It grows well in a sunny place, and also tolerates partial shade. But it is not worth planting it in a completely shaded place, if it lacks the sun, it may begin to stretch and the stems will be thinned, and the flowering is poor.

Physostegy planting soil

This plant is not picky about soils, however, when first planting it in a permanent place, it is still better to dig up the soil initially with organic fertilizers. Such fertilizers can be humus or rotted manure. Just sprinkle them on the soil and dig it up well to mix the soil with the organic matter.

Planting Physostegy

For planting, dig a hole sized to fit the plant for comfortable root placement. Cover the roots with soil and water abundantly.

When planting several plants, it is necessary to maintain a distance between them of at least 30 cm, it is not worth planting closer because the plant grows quickly enough.

Planting Physostegia next to other plants

Physostegy, as you already know, has a very powerful and extensive root system, so it can simply destroy all the plants growing next to it. So what do you do?

In order for your beauty not to ruin other beautiful flowers in your flower bed or in the garden, you just need to limit the growth of her roots to Physostegia. To do this, you need to dig in restraints in the form of pieces of slate or iron before planting. They will restrict root overgrowth.

What if there is no slate or iron? It also happens that you do not have such materials at your fingertips. Of course, you will not run and buy sheets of slate or iron just to plant a flower, because it is expensive and such costs are not for everyone.

But in your house or your friends or neighbors there will probably be an old, leaky iron bucket, you just need to remove the bottom, dig it into the ground and plant a flower right in this bucket. This will also prevent the roots from growing and killing other plants.

Physostegy Care

Physostegia, like most perennials, is not particularly demanding in care, however, to get beautiful flowers, it is still worth working on it a little.

Watering Physostegy

This flower loves moisture very much, it requires regular and abundant watering. However, this does not mean that it must be fanatically flooded with water, when brute-force, roots can rot and the plant will die completely. Never water it if it is still wet enough under the bush, if it is already dry or slightly damp under the bush, then it is worth watering.

Loosening the soil

All plants need oxygen access to the roots. In the summer, it is necessary to loosen the soil under the plant and around it at least once a week.

Feeding Physostegy

Perennials are not at all demanding on fertilizers, it is enough to apply fertilizer to the soil before planting. However, if you see that flowering is reduced, then you should purchase a special fertilizer for flowering plants, they are easy to find in any specialty store.

Physostegy Transplant

Physostegia grows very quickly, so it requires a transplant once every 5 years. This is due to the fact that by this time you will already have just a huge shrub and it will already be difficult for it to grow, renew and bloom. You can leave it in the same place, it is not necessary to change it, you just need to remove part of the shrub and fertilize it again.

Physostegia Winter Care

If you live in a warm region, then your flowers do not need insulation. Just after it fades and the foliage dries, cut the trunks leaving 5-8 cm above the ground. But if you live in cold regions and the winter is long and harsh, then after you do the pruning, you must completely cover the bush with dry leaves or sawdust, you can also cover it with straw. In winter, try to throw snow on the place where Fisostegia grows, so it will be warmer for the flower to winter.

Collecting Physostegy Seeds

After Physostegia has bloomed, in order to collect the seeds, you need to wait for the seed pods to dry, then shake the seeds out of them. Spread the seeds on a cloth or paper in a warm and well-ventilated area to dry completely. Then wrap them in paper for storage.

Reproduction of Physostegy

Physostegia reproduces in two ways - by seeds and by dividing the bush. We already know everything about seed reproduction. Now let's figure out the division of the bush.

It is very easy to divide a shrub. To do this, simply dig out all or part of the shrub. When digging, it is necessary to deepen the shovel well. Then just gently cut the shrub apart. Remove all dry parts from the separated parts.

Diseases and pests of Physostegy

Physostegia, like almost all perennial plants, is practically not susceptible to attacks by pests or diseases. But such troubles also happen with such a wonderful flower.

Physostegy pests

Of the pests, this flower is loved by spider mites and annoying aphids. It is quite possible to fight them, and the fight always gives a positive result. For the fight, the plant must be treated with the following preparations: “Actellic», «Biotlin», «Antitlin»And the like, which you can easily buy at any specialized store. Use the drugs according to the instructions.

Diseases of Physostegia

Physostegia suffers mainly from rust or fungal diseases. In the fight against them, you will be helped by treating plants with fungicides. Processing is carried out at the first signs of the disease.

The plant is also prone to root rot, but this disease can occur only if you water too abundantly, preventing the soil from drying out.

Types of Physostegy

This plant does not have very many different types, in your garden you can plant only 5 different types of this wonderful flower.

Physostegy "Alba" - this species has beautiful large white flowers. The leaves are dark green, serrated along the edges of the leaves, the middle of the leaf is smooth and dark. The plant has an average size for Physostegy, up to 1 meter in height.

Physostegy "Variegata" - the species is distinguished by rich pink flowers. The foliage of the species is dark green in the center and a white border around the edges. This species is also not high up to 1 meter in height.

Physostegy "Summer Spire" - is distinguished by an extraordinary dark pink or purple color of flowers. The foliage is dark green at the edges, serrated. Not a tall shrub grows up to 90 centimeters in height.

Physostegy "Vivid" - The flowers of this species are small, pale pink, sometimes almost white with a slightly pinkish tint. This species does not grow at all large, unlike Fizostegia ordinary, which grows in the wild, the height reaches a maximum of 60 centimeters. The foliage is dark green to lighter in color.

Physostegy "Bouquet Rose" - differs in very large bright lilac flowers, the color is very rich and striking. The plant grows large up to 1.5 meters in height. The foliage is also large, light green with jagged edges.

How Physostegy is applied in landscape design

Physostegy can often be seen on personal plots, the design of which was made by a professional.

They are planted along wide paths at a distance of 1 meter from the path itself, growing it turns into a chic shrub and beautifully framing the path.

Physostegy in landscape design

It is also planted on small hills, it looks very advantageous in the middle of large stones. Since it is quite large itself, it looks incredibly beautiful against the background of large stones.

Fizostegia planted near artificial ponds, fountains and waterfalls emphasizes their scale and grandeur with its splendor and size.

Physostegia looks great planted near the fence around the courtyard.

It is planted in large flowerpots in the garden or just in the yard. Many summer residents plant these flowers in old car tires, they look just fine in them.

You can also completely plant a small flower bed by the yard with flowers, in such an amount they will create a real gorgeous sea of ​​flowers that will delight you almost all summer with its abundance of color, especially if you plant different types of flowers.

With which neighbors it is better not to plant Physostegia

Since this is a tall plant that grows into a fairly large shrub, these flowers are by no means planted next to smaller and stunted flowers, they will be lost against its background and the flower bed will look very sloppy. If you are planting lower-growing flowers along with Physostegia, then it is worth planting them in front at a distance so that they can be clearly seen.

Well, here, perhaps, all the basic rules for growing Physostegy. We hope that you are interested in this flower and you will plant it on your site, and our practical tips for growing will help you with this.

The benefits of stevia

Stevia leaves are 300 times sweeter than sugar and contain more than 50 substances useful for the human body: mineral salts (calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, zinc, iron, cobalt, manganese) vitamins P, A, E, C beta-carotene, amino acids, essential oils, pectins.

The uniqueness of stevia lies in the combination of vitamins and minerals with high sweetness and low calorie content. Therefore, drinks and foods with stevia are used to control body weight, in case of diabetes mellitus.

It is widely used as a sugar substitute in Japan, and in the USA and Canada it is used as a food additive. Medical research shows good results in the use of stevia for the treatment of obesity and hypertension.

Growing and caring for Fuchsia.

Fuchsia - This houseplant adorns homes and offices.

Fuchsia is not capricious in leaving, even a novice florist can grow it at home.

Fuchsia blooms profusely and for a long time with beautiful lantern flowers.

How to care for room fuchsia at home

A comfortable temperature for growing fuchsia is + 18 - 22 degrees in summer, and not lower than 18 in winter.

If the temperature is higher or lower. The buds will begin to fall off, the leaves will become smaller and lighter.

The plant is guided by the ambient temperature. When it is warm and light, the flower actively develops and blooms profusely, from spring to autumn.
In late autumn and winter, when it gets cooler and less sunlight - the development of the fuchsia flower stops, the buds stop forming - the fuchsia is getting ready for rest.

Fuchsia location

It is better to place the fuchsia pot on the windowsills of the east and north side of the room. If necessary, protect the flower from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.

On the north-facing windows in the spring, perhaps the fuchsia will lack lighting. We'll have to provide the bushes with illumination using a phyto-lamp or fluorescent lamp for up to 12 hours a day.
... During flowering, the flower cannot be rearranged from place to place and turned in different directions. Fuchsia does not like this, and can shed all the buds.

Proper watering is the most important part of blooming fuchsia care.

Fuchsia should be watered regularly. Make sure that the soil is well saturated with moisture every time. The next watering should be no earlier than the topsoil dries up from the previous watering.

Excess water from the pan must be drained in order to prevent moisture stagnation in the roots of the plant.

A flowering plant has a great need for moisture. Watering in the summer is necessary often and regularly - every 3-4 days, and sometimes more often. In autumn, watering is gradually reduced to once a week, and in winter it is watered no more than once or twice a month.

You need to feed fuchsia regularly, once every two weeks. This is especially important during the active growing season, from April to the very fall. For feeding, complex fertilizers are used for decorative flowering plants. Watering with liquid fertilizers must be done on wet soil. Top dressing helps fuchsia grow green mass and form countless buds.

Young, freshly planted fuchsia bushes do not need to be fed, since they are planted in a well-prepared soil filled with all the necessary microelements and organic matter.

Planting Fuchsia

It is impossible to plant a Fuchsia stalk immediately in a large pot. Increase the size of the pot gradually. At the beginning, the pot should not be more than 9 cm in diameter. As the roots cover the whole clod of earth, and it becomes necessary to transplant the plant, you can prepare a slightly larger pot. A good layer of expanded clay is laid at the bottom. Add a layer of soil and plant a prepared bush or stalk.

The pot should be well filled with soil to prevent voids between the roots and the walls of the pot. To do this, gently shake the pot and tap on its walls, but in no case, do not tamp it with your hands.

We take out the fuchsia from the old pot. Fuchsia is growing very quickly. It must be regularly transplanted into a pot of a suitable size, which is 3-4 cm larger than the previous one.

It is best to do this every spring, during the beginning of the awakening and growth of the flower.

It is better to take a ceramic pot so that it protects the root system of the plant from overheating in the summer heat.

It is better to take a commercial potting soil mixture for flowering houseplants as a substrate.

The transplant must be carried out by the transfer method: pour some soil into the pot on the drainage layer, then carefully remove the fuchsia from the old pot and place it in a new pot together with a lump of earth. Fill the voids on the sides with potting soil.

After transplanting, place the fuchsia on a shelf with diffused lighting. Cut off the stems one third of the length.

Spray the leaves and sprinkle with standing water until excess water appears in the pan. After a few minutes, drain excess moisture from the pallet.
After transplanting, no additional feeding is needed for a month. Now wait a couple of months - abundant fuchsia bloom is guaranteed to you!

Trimming and pinching.

Fuchsia flowers appear on young shoots. To get more shoots, the plant needs to be cut off regularly, and young shoots should be pinched.

Pinching - a very effective method to make fuchsia bloom more profusely. With the help of nips, they form the necessary shape, give the crown the appearance of a ball, bush or miniature bonsai tree. Fuchsia, depending on the variety, grows in height up to three meters or more.If you pinch the plant in time, it will form into a strong and beautiful bush.

You need to cut indoor fuchsia twice a year: in autumn and winter. Fuchsia in the form of a tree During the first, autumn, pruning, remove all faded branches of fuchsia at a height of 2 cm from the dormant buds.

Carefully inspect each branch for the presence of pests, remove excess seed pods and outdated flower stalks. If insect pests are found, cut off the heavily damaged parts of the flower and treat the entire plant with an insecticide.

Do the second pruning at the beginning of January for the final formation of the plant crown.

Propagation by cuttings.

Rooting the cuttings in water - This is the main and most successful way of breeding fuchsia. The best time for cuttings is spring. Pick a young shoot on a fuchsia bush. Cutting length is from 10 to 20 cm. Remove the leaves at the bottom of the shoot so that none of them come into contact with the liquid in the container prepared for rooting. Cut off large leaves either completely or in half.

Place the cutting in a jar with settled water and cover with a dense translucent bag on top. After 5 - 10 days, roots should appear. After a couple of weeks, the stalk can be planted in a pot with a nutrient mixture and drainage at the bottom. The size of the pot should be no more than 9 cm. In height.

The main problems that arise when caring for a plant.

1. Fuchsia has dropped the buds.

  • Insufficient or excessive watering
  • moving a pot with a flowering plant to a new place
  • insufficient lighting
  • too high air temperature
  • lack of nutrition in the soil.

2 . Fuchsia has dropped the leaves.

  • Indoor air is too dry
  • High air temperature
  • Lack of moisture in the soil
  • Lack of nutrition in the soil.

3. The leaves of fuchsia turned yellow.

Waterlogging of the soil (water the flower correctly, excess water from the pan must be drained.

Reduce watering to a minimum during dormant periods.)

4. Dark spots and small dew drops appeared on fuchsia leaves.

Too high humidity in the room (it is necessary to reduce the humidity, ventilate the room more often, spray fuchsia with special preparations).

5. Fuchsia does not bloom.

  • Unfavorable conditions during hibernation
  • Late circumcision or not timely pinching of fuchsia
  • The plant stands in direct sunlight
  • Little light (the shoots will be stretched, they will be thin and frail, the buds will be weak or not formed at all).
  • The pot is too large for the flower (fuchsia will bloom when its roots completely encircle the entire earth in the pot.
  • If the flower is still small, and the pot is too large, most likely you will not wait for flowers this year)
  • The soil in the pot is poor and too light (such soil quickly becomes compacted from irrigation, there are few useful elements in it.
  • The root system is located at the edges of the pot, cannot braid the entire earthen lump in the center and suffers greatly from this)
  • The soil is too heavy, the roots develop poorly or completely stop developing (the plant does not receive moisture and nutrition, the soil sour, the roots rot)
  • The flower was overfed with nitrogen fertilizers (the green mass will begin to increase to the detriment of flowering. Until the fuchsia has mastered the entire excess supply of nitrogen fertilizers, it will not bloom).

In hot dry weather, pests can settle on fuchsia bushes. Common parasites for this flower are the whitefly and spider mite.

Whitefly can be seen if you shake the bush - many tiny white moths will fly in all directions. The larvae and eggs of the pest will remain on the leaves. This is a very dangerous pest. It multiplies quickly and is difficult to hatch.

A spider mite can be identified by the cobweb that appears on the undersides of the leaves. If this problem arises, it can be solved with the help of folk remedies or chemicals.

It is necessary to spray the affected plants several times, with intervals of 5 to 7 days, until the fuchsia is completely rid of insects.

Watch your plants, regularly inspect them for disease and pest damage, and take action in time.

Watch the video: Healthy Sugar Substitutes To Sweeten Your Food. Dr Mona Vand