Houseplants Published: 23 September 2011 Reprinted: Last edits:
To the genus of plants smithiantha include about 8 species of plants belonging to the Gesneriev family. In some publications, the plant is called Negelia. The plant lives in the mountains of South and Central America. Smitanta has been bred since 1840, and the genus of the plant is named in Honor of Matilda Smith, who was an artist in a private botanical garden in Alglia - "Kew".
Smitiante is a herbaceous plant, pubescent with straight shoots, growing up to 70 cm in height. Rhizomes - similar to the roots of achimenes - scaly. The stem is straight. They grow asymmetrically, brownish-green pubescent, heart-shaped or oval in shape.
The flowers are similar to bells, collected in a brush, hanging down, there are no peri-flowered leaves. The domestic smitiante has many different flower colors: orange-red, just red, pink, white. There are also just yellow flowers in the throat with contrasting spots. Miniature forms are also grown. Like the Achimenes, indoor Smithians have a pronounced dormant period, during which the aerial part dies off immediately after the end of flowering.
Briefly about growing
- Bloom: from early summer to mid-autumn.
- Lighting: bright diffused light.
- Temperature: from March to mid-autumn - 23-25 ºC, and after the death of leaves - 20 ºC.
- Watering: from the beginning of spring to October - as soon as the top layer of the substrate dries up, during the dormant period, you just need to make sure that the earthen lump does not dry out completely.
- Air humidity: high, but the plant cannot be sprayed, so it is placed on a pallet with wet pebbles.
- Top dressing: during the period of active growth, once a week with a solution of mineral fertilizer for flowering plants in a half dosage.
- Rest period: from the end of flowering to March.
- Transfer: every spring, the Smithian is transplanted into a fresh substrate, laying the rhizome horizontally in the ground.
- Substrate: 2 parts of leafy land, 3 parts of turf and one part of coniferous, peat land and coarse sand.
- Reproduction: cuttings, dividing rhizomes and seeds.
- Pests: thrips, whiteflies and spider mites.
- Diseases: gray rot and loss of decorative qualities as a result of improper care or violation of conditions of detention.
Read more about growing Smithians below.
Caring for a smithian at home
The smithiant plant needs diffused bright light. The plant feels best on the windows of the east and west directions. If the smithiante is on the south side at home, then she needs to provide shade from the direct rays of the sun - tulle is perfect for this. On the northern windows, the plant may lack lighting, which may prevent normal vegetation.
The best temperatures from March to mid-autumn are 23-25 ° C. After the leaves die off, the smithyanta is kept at a temperature not lower than 20 ° C.
Watering the Smithians
From the beginning of spring to October (growing season), smithiante in room conditions requires abundant watering, immediately after the topsoil has dried. It is necessary to strictly monitor that the substrate does not dry out and does not become waterlogged. Over-abundant watering can create conditions for decay of the root system. It is better to water with settled water with bottom irrigation, because it is better to avoid getting water on the leaves, from which the plant can lose its decorative properties. After the dying off of the shoots of the Smithian, during the dormant period, the soil is only occasionally moistened.
The smithiant flower needs high air humidity. Leaves will curl if the humidity is low. It is impossible to spray smithyanta if there is no desire to reduce the ornamental value of the plant. To increase the humidity, the pot with the plant is placed on a pallet moistened with expanded clay.
Smithyant needs to be fed with fertilizers during the period of active growth. The fertilizer is diluted with water so that the concentration is below the usual rate.
Growing from seeds
Reproduction of Smithyanta by seeds can be done from mid-winter to mid-spring. Small seeds need light to germinate, for this reason, the seeds are not buried in the ground, but evenly scattered onto a pre-prepared substrate - moistened and even. For seeds to sprout, they need high Humidity. To do this, cover the container with seeds with foil. The seeds will germinate within three weeks, and in another month or so, it will be time to replant their pick boxes. After a month and a half, the seedlings are planted in separate pots. After transplanting into a larger pot, it will take approximately six months for the plant to bloom. At the end of flowering, the green parts of the Smithians die off. The roots must remain dry and the air temperature must not exceed 15 ° C.
Throughout the growing season, propagation of Smitians by cuttings is possible. Propagated by cutting off the upper part of the shoots - 5-6 cm. Roots are formed in water, or if cuttings are planted in a substrate for Saintpaulias immediately after cutting. It is necessary to maintain humidity at 70-80%.
Reproduction by division
When the plant is transplanted at the end of February, the smithianthu can be propagated by dividing the root. The cut rhizomes are placed in the soil horizontally at a depth of 2 cm. 3 rhizomes are planted in a pot 10 cm in diameter.
Diseases and pests of Smithians
Smitiante or koleria During the period of active growth, the Smithian can be confused with Koleria, her close relative. The difference between these plants is that the dormant period is clearly pronounced in the Smithyanta - the aboveground part of the plant dies off after flowering. In Koleria, shoots are often bare in winter, and the upper part dies very rarely.
Brown spots on the leaves of the Smithyanta. The reason for the appearance of brown spots on the leaves may be watering with too cold or harsh water; if the water on the leaves has stayed for too long or from mechanical damage.
Smithian leaf burns. One of the reasons for the appearance of light yellow spots on the leaves may be sunburn - if the plant has been in direct sunlight for a long time or overheated. Smithyant needs to be shaded and provide adequate ventilation; if the soil is dry, then watering should be resumed after the temperature of the pot drops to room temperature. The south windows of the Smithiante need diffused light and good ventilation. Another reason for the yellowing of the leaves may be an overabundance or lack of minerals in the substrate.
Gray bloom on the leaves of Smithyanta. The appearance of a gray bloom on the leaves indicates too high humidity and poor ventilation. Most likely, this is a fungal disease.
Smitiante does not bloom. If you do not adhere to the care conditions described above, the smithian may not bloom. There will be no flowering if the plant lacks lighting, lacks nutrients in the soil. It can also be caused by improper care during the rest period or in the wrong temperature regime.
Pests Smithians. The pests that damage the Smithian are thrips, whiteflies and ticks.
Smithiantha x hybrida
The stem is erect. The leaves are velvety, dark green in color, heart-shaped. The flowers are collected on stalks in a paniculate inflorescence, the shape of the flower resembles a narrow bell. The flowers are bright orange, pink or yellow. This species is distinguished by a flowering period, for which it is most appreciated - the smithyanta blooms from August to March. Peace comes after flowering. Prelude has a yellow throat and a dark red corolla. Lobes of the limb are white with red streaks and spots.
This species of perennial smithians has been cultivated since the 1840s. The shoot is erect, up to 60 cm in height. Leaves up to 15 cm long, broadly oval, located oppositely on the trunk; the leaves are velvety, the edge of the leaf is serrated, the color of the leaf plate is bright green, the vein is purple-brown. The flowers grow up to 4 cm in length, gather in loose clusters at the top of the plant. The bright orange corolla has red spots in the pharynx. Smitiante zebra blooms mainly in summer.
This herbaceous plant grows up to 30 cm in height. The leaves are covered with red hairs; toothed wide and long (grow up to 15 cm). The flowers are bell-like, the corolla is tubular, the length is up to 4 cm. The flowers are red, the middle is yellow; grow with a brush (similar to a pyramid) up to 25 cm in height. By the end of autumn, there can be up to 100 flowers on a Smithian. Flowers can also grow in leaf axils - not only at the top.
Smitiantha multiflora / Smithiantha multiflora
The highly decorative smitiante, originally from Mexico, is covered with soft hair and grows up to 30 cm in height. It has heart-shaped green leaves. The flowers are up to 4 cm long and have a creamy white tint. This species is often used to create hybrids. The main flowering period is summer.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Gesneriaceae
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Indoor Plants Information
Sections: Houseplants Beautiful flowering Plants on C Gesneria
Medinilla is found on the planet in a limited number of territories: on the islands of the Malay Archipelago, in the tropical latitudes of Africa, in Madagascar. In its form, it has about 400 types of shrubs.
Medinilla is an evergreen shrub that grows to about 2 m in height. The branches are usually bare, but there are also slightly bristly, rounded, ribbed branches. Leaves are entire, with 3-9 veins, thickened, whorled or opposite.
Medinilla attracts special attention with beautiful flowers. They are collected in panicles, hanging from the plant, pink, white or pink-red shades. Medinilla is valued among flower growers both for the special decorativeness of leaves and flowers.
It is very difficult to take care of medinilla at home, therefore, it can often be found growing in conditions of botanical gardens, greenhouses or greenhouses. The plant likes to be in a strictly defined temperature regime and in high humidity.
The history of the origin of the name of the plant is very interesting. Medinilla got its name from the governor of one of the many Spanish colonies J. de Medinilla and Pineda. In Europe, the flowering plant was first seen in England in the garden of Mr. Veitch in 1850.
Ludisia orchid care at home
Location and lighting
Ludisia is one of the few orchids who prefer shade to light. Diffused light is suitable for growing it. It is better to close the plant from burning sunlight, otherwise the leaves will receive serious burns. Bright light is allowed only in the morning and evening hours. The duration of daylight hours should be at least 12-14 hours, so it is important to resort to the use of additional artificial lighting. An overabundance of lighting affects ludisia - the orchid loses its decorative effect, and the leaves fall down with a lack of lighting, the leaves stretch out.
Throughout the year, the daily temperature of the content of ludisia should be in the range of 20-22 degrees. At night, the temperature should not drop below 18 degrees. It is very important to observe small temperature differences between day and night: the difference should be 2-4 degrees.
Ludisia can be grown without problems in dry air, but the flower will still grow better with regular spraying of the leaves with water. To do this, you need to use soft, settled water at about room temperature or slightly higher. Hard water will leave streaks on precious leaves.
In spring and summer, when ludisia is actively growing and developing, it is important to arrange for it some kind of tropical rain - the leaves are washed under warm shower jets. Then the leaves are wiped with a soft cloth or napkin and only after that they put the pot with the plant in its original place in the room.
When watering ludisia, you need to proceed from the ambient temperature in the room. The higher the temperature, the more often and more abundantly watering should be, and vice versa. However, it is important to avoid stagnation of water in the pot or sump, the constant moisture condition of the soil can lead to rotting of the roots. But the substrate should not dry out either, since this can harm the orchid leaves.
The optimal soil composition for growing ludisia can be made from the following components: leafy soil, chopped fern roots, peat, charcoal and small pieces of pine bark. The largest pieces of the substrate should be at the bottom, and smaller ones closer to the surface. This prevents moisture from retaining in the pot. The top of the substrate must be covered with sphagnum so that it does not dry out too quickly.
Top dressing and fertilizers
Ludisia is fed up only during the period of active growth and flowering - from spring to autumn. For this, a universal fertilizer for orchids is used. At every third watering, use a dressing diluted in water in 1/3 of the recommended concentration according to the instructions.
Frequent transplantation of ludisia is not needed. It is placed in a new pot only after the plant has grown too large and the old pot becomes too cramped. The new pot should be wide and shallow, and the best time to transplant is in spring.
Growing regular and curly chlorophytum at home
Caring for regular and curly chlorophytum at home is not difficult. This flower is one of the most unpretentious plants, so it is condescending to those mistakes that growers make in caring for it. And yet, for its successful cultivation, it is better to comply with some conditions.
The optimum temperature for growing chlorophytum is moderate. In winter, it should not fall below 18 ° C. The plant can withstand temperature changes steadily, however, this is reflected in its appearance, so it is better to avoid such situations and protect it from cold drafts.
Photophilous plant, but it does not tolerate direct sunlight. Therefore, the ideal place for keeping a flower is the east or west window. You can place it on the northern window, however, the lack of a sufficient amount of light will certainly affect its decorative qualities. At the same time, placing it on the south window, you should take care of moderate shading.
Here you can see a photo of home care for chlorophytum of curly and smooth-leaved varieties:
From spring to autumn, it needs abundant watering, in which the substrate will always be moist. With the onset of the winter dormant period, watering should be reduced to moderate.
The plant welcomes the spraying with great gratitude, which is carried out in the summer. In winter, when caring for a flower, chlorophytum at home should be sprayed only if there is a heating system in the immediate vicinity of its location.
In March-August, the flower should be fed in a week with complex fertilizer.
While caring for chlorophytum at home, young plants are transplanted every year, adults - every 2-3 years. The ideal time for this procedure is February or March. For transplantation, a soil mixture is prepared from 1 part of leafy earth, sand, humus and 2 parts of sod land taken. If the flower is not transplanted in time, the bottom of the pot will literally be torn apart by its massive, rapidly growing roots, so spacious pots should be chosen for planting. You should also take care of good drainage.
The plant is propagated by rooting "children" and dividing during transplantation. Daughter sockets - "kids" - are separated from the peduncle and planted in pots.
All species are resistant to diseases and pests. Despite this, flower growers sometimes have problems due to improper care, which should be addressed immediately.
Improper watering, sudden changes in temperature and lack or excess of nutrients can cause the tips of the leaves to turn brown.
Lack of lighting or a cramped pot can cause variegated leaves to lose their color.
If the temperature is too high and there is insufficient light, the leaves become pale and soft, and may fall off.
If the plant is watered excessively in winter at low air temperatures, then brown spots will appear on its leaves.
Pest control of common and curly chlorophytum at home
When caring for curly and ordinary chlorophytum at home, you can encounter such a problem as insect pests.
Scale pests feed on cell sap from the leaves and stems of the plant. As a result, the leaves of the flower fade, dry and fall off. In order to get rid of the scabbard, you should wipe the leaves of the plant with a soapy sponge and then spray it with a systemic insecticide.
It can be affected by spider mites, the cause of which is excessively dry air. This pest also leads to leaf fall. In order to combat the spider mite, the plant is wiped with a soapy sponge, washed under a warm shower, and if it is severely infected, it is sprayed with an insecticide. Subsequently, in order to prevent it, it is necessary to take care of regularly spraying the plant with water to ensure the necessary air humidity.
The video "Caring for chlorophytum at home" will help you better master all agrotechnical techniques: